A big question before I got there and an easy answer after – is it worth the detour? Yes, it is worth the detour!
Everything you’ve read is true. The town is blue collar top to bottom. The museum is nestled there between the train tracks and the oil refinery. This powerful symbol of – of what? good question – anyway it is a powerful symbol and you are forced to consider the conflict inherent in so much money being put to such use – like seeing a poor town support a magnificent cathedral.
Inside it is as spellbinding as outside and if you get a chance and can daytrip in you won’t be sorry.