On the way back…
On the way back we stopped off at another heiau near the house.
Hawaii over the years.
…a drive-about. We just look for roads and drive on them. We were in the back country above Kapa’a. Cool!
Then we went to the Farmer’s Market and then home to eat what we had bought…pictures tomorrow.
March 23
I’m sure I’ve mentioned before the rule in Hawai’i that all beaches must have public access. Sometimes they make that access 1) a mystery to find and 2) once found nearly impossible to navigate.
Not so here in Kapa’a, behind the Coconut Marketplace.
This section of beach through Kapa’a is entirely fronted by hotels, timeshares, and condos, some of very classic old Hawaiiana style, which makes it a delight to walk through with its shade trees, tidy paths, handsome buildings, and gorgeous waterfront.
Here we are at the entrance to the old Ahukini Pier at the southern end of Hanamaʻulu Bay, just south of the Lihu’e airport. You can see the harbor beacon at the end of the jetty.
The sugar folk used this pier for the ships that took their cargo to the mainland as it was the only deep water port in Kaua’i until, after WWII and the construction of the newer bigger better port at Nawiliwili this facility was abandonded, and then mostly dismantled by the late 1970s.
Wow, the whole story in one sentence…
March 21
We said Aloha and Bon Voyage to Chris and Janis. It’s been an exceptionally fine week. You can read about it here at this link: Congratualtions Chris On Your Retirement! Enjoy!
The next day, on the 22nd, Sharon and I did absolutely nothing what-so-ever At All. I didn’t go out of the house. We took a day to just absorb all that FUN we had had the previous week!
March 21
It’s Aloha, Mahalo, and Bon Voyage to Chris and Janis. Mazel Tov Chris on your upcoming retirement and for giving us such a fine opportunity to celebrate.
The girls have bestowed all their leis upon the spirit house, thanking her for letting us be here, and in her honor doing their very best huki-huki-huki-hukilau.
We ate at Duke’s for the view, the ladies went shopping, and we got pizza in for our last night together.
And had a little pass at the hukilau hula as in ‘we’re going to a hukilau’. We’re intently watching the computer play the dvd lesson. Another few weeks and we’d ‘a had it.
sp.
March 20
Starting today Kauai is celebrating Prince Kuhio Week. We got out of the house relatively early so we could catch the longboat races and it was fun.
By good fortune alone, since all the directions we could find were wrong, we ended up at the women’s and mixed crew’s finish line just as the first boats were coming in.
Those three ladies were the judges marking down the boats as they passed the buoy indicating the finish line.
This felt like a local event and all in good fun. Maybe all the wrong directions were to keep the tourists away? It was tons of fun to overhear people talking to each other in the island patois of family and friends.
Then we moved on to where the men were gathering to start their race. Sometimes the boats are called longboats, sometimes outriggers, sometimes canoes. In the write-up in the paper and online they called this a long-distance canoe race.
There were maybe 8-12 boats participating, 6 oars per crew. The race started not from the beach as I expected but out there by the lighthouse.
Then they paddled hard in open sea for a very long time. We didn’t wait it out for their return but by three hours there was still no sign of them.
The beach above is part of the Marriott complex. (All the beaches are public by the way, it’s the law.)
That boat, oar, and surfboard are all historic pieces lovingly displayed in their lobby. The boats used in today’s races are the same basic design as this one which was built in … I forget … but it’s plenty old.
(Another one of my new lobby-shots technique. I’m going to be doing these babies a Lot.)
On the grounds of the Marriott, famous for the frenzy they generate every day when they feed the koi.
This camel is rather handsome I think.
March 19
Egret. Whenever someone sees an egret she says “egret” because they are so entertaining to watch. Most often you see them on the ground, standing on one thin leg, always apart from one another, motionless. Or standing on the back of a cow.
We mostly tootled around today, a stop here and there, and I apparently didn’t take a picture at each stop so I forget where we stopped and it’s only the next day!
We did another Lydgate walk, the first for Chris and Janis because no trip to Kauai is complete without a Lydgate walk.
Resting along the way.
We ate lunch out today. We’ve been eating out only once a day at most and at home the rest of the time because it is just so nice to be home and with four people pitching in with cooking and cleaning the whole meal-deal goes quite happily, with ease and camaraderie. Impressively so I would say.
This evening Chris and Janis played a few rounds of mini-golf out in the back yard.
This is a true fact. Chris dropped her first ball, wacked it with her club, and it went in the hole. A hole in one on her first swing. A true fact.
This time of year in Kauai the bloomers are not yet blooming. Even last year when we came in April there were more blooming than in March.
Most of the color you see now are the few hibiscus that give off flowers year around and these ti plants that grow everywhere and glow from pale pink to deep purple. And every green in the rainbow of course. Green is a color.
Follow the arrow. What you can’t see there is blown up in the inset. The rare and protected nesting Albatross. They’ve got a fence around that whole meadow in an effort to keep out predators.
March 18
Today’s first stop – The Kilauea Lighthouse, favored spot for wind, to catch a passing whale, and to marvel at the sea birds that swoop and caw overhead.
Leaving the lighthouse and traveling on to Hanalei we pass by this view of a mountain of waterfalls. Water, essential for the Garden Isle.
It has rained every day but we’ve been lucky in not getting rained out of anything really. It would have been nice for Chris and Janis if we’d got more sun but all in all, and what with what it could have been, we’re feeling lucky.
And then we drove the few blocks to Hanalei Bay where she washed that man right out of her hair.
On the way back we stop at the newly reopened Princeville Hotel now named the St Regis Princeville Resort.
We didn’t see any difference in the structures but all the decor is new. Do we like it better? Probably not but oh well.
I made this picture myself!
This is the last bit that lets you know you’re in Hawaii except of course for looking out the windows that cover the entire back wall facing Hanalei Bay.
And here’s a view of their semi-private beach.
They’ve got all the rest that you would expect of a many-starred resort and I’m sure it is a pleasure to stay here. We were really happy when we got ‘home’.
March 17
Here’s a picture from Sharon’s camera, from the Luau, us, way too cute.
Kicking off another big day, we swung by the Wailua Falls. And mighty grand they are.
Next stop, the little cutie-pie touristified village of Koloa where they have retained one chimney of the first sugar mill in Kauai and built a memorial to all those who worked the mills.
from The Internet: “The Sugar Monument itself is a circular, concrete sculpture suggesting a mill stone. Inside, there is a captivating bronze sculpture depicting the eight principal ethnic groups that brought the sugar industry to life (Hawaiian, Caucasian (this guy is missing from the sculpture!), Puerto Rican, Chinese, Korean, Japanese, Portuguese, and Filipino).”
Check out the chicken at the lower right. Even back then, chickens…
The sign says ‘Koloa Historic Center’ and they’ve got some interesting stuff in there.
I added this guy but deleted one of the others. There is a maximum number of chickens that one is willing to look at and in this story I had reached that number already.
Here we board the Holo Holo catamaran for our dinner and sunset cruise and what was to be a tour of the Na Pali coast but turned out to be a whale watching adventure since the Na Pali side was, according to the boat folks, too rough to visit.
Look! Goats! The captain was so pleased to call out. From the boat those guys looked like specks and only folks with binoculars could confirm the sighting.
We can see them here because of full on zoom and full on clipped in the computer. But he was right. Goats.
We and several other boats like this were gathered around watching the whales of which there were many many and of which I got not one shot. But it was cool too see them.
We also got a nice sea turtle sighting.
There were local arts and crafts out on the lawn.
“Wow” I said, “your flowers are fab”. “Michaels, on the mainland” she replied.
One block from the house is this heiau, or sacred place, one of the seven along this stretch of road. In this location you also find the birthing stone upon which it was required that all future kings of Kauai be born.
Just above the heiau and the birthing stone you climb a few flights of stairs to reach this old Japanese cemetery.
It’s not huge but it is so interesting to look around. With the exception of 5 or so more recent markers, the graves do not show dates past the 1950s yet many are freshly decorated.
From the Japanese Cemetery looking to the left is the start of the palm trees that grow in the abandoned and nasty old, but once elegant Coco Palms Hotel.
To the right is where the riverfront begins with a small plot of State Park for public access and where on occasion roudy youth disrupt the calm.
…and across the road looking down you can see the Wailua river that runs past the house. That is an example of the long outriggers that pass by on their training runs several times a day.
Next we made another stop up at the Hindu Monastery so Chris and Janis could have a look even if all we got to see was this guy.
Our evening’s activity was this: a LUAU!
There are four prominent luau offerings on Kauai, each a little different, all for the tourists. We picked this one based on some local recommendations and it was entirely fun. I won’t complain about the kitschy inauthentic-ness of the whole enterprise because what do you expect when you go to a luau for tourists. A tourist luau.
And for that it was particularly good I thought. The food was tasty with entertainments throughout from the minute you get in your first line. And we got GREAT seats and had an unobstructed view from less than 15 feet away. We could really get into it.
(This is the Luau Kalamaku at the Kilohana Plantation btw.)
They did the show as a story of one family who settled in Kauai, arriving by longboat seeking a better life.
…and some great fire action at the end. It was a real hit and packed a lot of wow for this relatively modest show’s grand finale.
March 14-15
Aloha! Welcome to Sharon’s sister-in-law Chris and Chris’s friend Janis. ALOHALadies!
We decided to go to Waimea Canyon first because it is such a phenomonal thing to see. This is not Waimea Canyon but on the way, and it’s nice too, of Kauai’s red dirt which is absolutely everywhere.
The classic view. Very fortunately we got to see the clouds lift for this sight. Unfortunately it was the only moment we were up there when it wasn’t raining pretty hard so we missed the other viewing opportunities.
Just this though was worth the drive.
We were home by 6 for an easy and pleasant evening, looking forward to more big fun tomorrow.
We ate lunch at the canyon, in Koke’e State Park where the Splendid Red Jungle Fowl are especially plentiful, fed as they are by the tourists.
Coming back we drove as far north as you can coming along the west side of the island. There’s a military base that carefully controls access these days.
And speaking of the military, we did a little drive-by of the old Russian Fort.
And later we enjoyed the sun further inland a bit at Hanapepe, and even crossed the swinging bridge just for the heck of it.
March 13
In the far distance, Mount Wai’ale’ale from the river side of the house, one of the rarest sights in Kaua’i as the peak is so often hidden by clouds, raining nearly every day as it does, and the wettest place on earth.
We check every morning and clap delightedly when she reveals herself. Quick Quick, a Photo!
But we didn’t participate in any sporting pleasure but rather had a lovely aloha and decidedly unambitious picnic and stroll at Lydgate.
A few of the paddle/surf boards and canoes available at the house for your sporting pleasure. The opposite bank is reflected in the windows.
In ‘our’ neighborhood you find the highest concentration of sacred sites in Kaua’i and worth learning a little about before visiting.
Of an evening, enjoying a cocktail on the lanai and watching the life of the river as it winds down for the evening.
Guests are arriving tomorrow and I’ll start a new chapter where we’ll be four instead of two. Should be FUN!
Hanalei – sight of the filming for Bali Hai. There are gorgeous properties edging this bay. The surfing was amazing. You could hardly see a wave but still people were riding great distances on these simple swells.
It looked like an excellent place to get started surfing because without heavy wave action you could paddle out easily enough to try again and again.
March 12
Anini Beach, near Hanalei but you’ve got to drive a fair distance off the main road to get here. This is my new favorite beach of all time (that I can remember at this moment anyway… memory being what it is).
Here is a vast expanse of bay protected by a coral reef. You can ride waves much further out and snorkel near the reef, or you can lounge in the calm, shaded, stunning to look at, easy to park, lovely facilitied, full of treasures in the sand, glory that is this place.
the Dude! We have been waiting all week for one of these guys to show up. The red-crested cardinal. Our favorite!
We are ducking out of the rain here on Anini Beach. We are on the wettest side of the island which must account for the lack of crowds.
The two women in the distance are picking through the sand grain by grain collecting a specific type of shell about the size of a lentel. They had been working for some time and had found enough to fill a couple thimbles. The women said doing this was calming, like a meditation.
Looking across from the photo above, that’s where Puff frolicked in the autumn mist in a land called Hanalei.
Problem: he’s supposed to be frolicking in a land that rhymes with sea… but still, it’s supposed to be this place, it says so on the internet.
On the way back we stopped at Banana Joe’s near the Kilauea lighthouse for a fresh fruit treat…
…and met up with a family of Splendid Red Jungle Fowl. I don’t have any shots of the dads yet this year but they are still around, thousands and thousands of them protected by law, and very Splendid they are.
A formation that you can see from most places on this quadrant of the island. We had originally identified this guy as Sleeping Giant but not so. Sleeping Giant actually rests right up the road from the house!
March 11
We decided to just head out today and flip a coin as to turning left or right. This ‘method’ took us in the direction of Poipu and one of our favorite stops, the Grand Hyatt.
But first, what’s that over there? An abandoned mill of some sort of which there are many on Kaua’i where once sugar plantations and processing plants drove the economy and where now it’s all about the tourists.
…and futher along the coast and up the bluffs. It’s an easy walk that we do at least once or twice every visit because it is so dang gorgeous.
Back at the hotel, various of these incredibly colorful guys live in the atrium. If they could wish I’d guess they were wishing they could fly the heck out of here, but they surely are amazing to watch.
We took a spin through the itty bitty quiet peaceful sailing port of Nawiliwili where once a week…
…this cruise ship disgourges several thousand folk onto the Garden Isle. All the big shows and tours kick into full force on the day-night-day of their stay.
Interestingly, in our daily life we don’t notice them much so they must just get absorbed into the general tourist flow of things.
March 10
We decided to brave the off and on rain and headed up to the Hindu Monastery as neither of us had been before and they are open only a few hours each day Monday-Friday.
We’re thinking to come back when they have the once per week tour. They take you into the places you can’t visit on your own, like the new temple in the distance there.
From their website:
“Kaua’i’s Hindu Monastery, founded in 1970 by Satguru Sivaya Subramuniyaswami (1927-2001), is under the spiritual direction of his successor, Satguru Bodhinatha Veylanswami. It is part of the Saiva Siddhanta Church, founded in Sri Lanka in 1949. Its spiritual heritage derives from the Nandinatha Sampradaya, which goes back to 2,200 bce.”
It was all quite fabulous. Here you walk through a tunnel of these trees and come upon the figure very surprisingly, and it was dark as you approach through the trees.
Religion…what people will believe…
And then Clear Skies! So we had the walk we had been hoping for along a portion of our new favorite trail.
March 9
Good morning! A view out my bedroom window. Looks like it’s going to be a nice day for walking…
…not. Rain rain rain.
We haven’t had one consecutive hour without rain. It’s random reinforcement. We keep thinking AH-HA, now it has stopped, which it has, and the skies clear and the sun shines and we put on our shoes to go walking and BAM, like from out of nowhere, more rain. But then they don’t call it the Garden Isle for nothing.
Looking out from the entrance gates.
Inside the gates is a vestibule where you can admire the stone carvings and change your shoes before entering the house.
She watches the lanai from her spot along the side of the house.
I was thinking to name her Hi’iaka after the Hawaiian goddess of water. Because the Thai goddess of water is named Phra Mae Khongkha… Sharon wants to name her Tofuti.