Back home to Michael…
Back home to Michael and Susan’s place where…
…they fed me dinner AGAIN! We had a cheese plate each evening too; a gal could get used to this. I also don’t want to forget that as soon as I get my stove I’m going to make Quince Paste. A cheese plate becomes A Cheese Plate when you’ve got some quince paste to enjoy.
Now I’m going to quote from a movie I should see…The Castle, and the quote is “Why would anyone want to go to a restaurant when you can eat like this 7 days a week?” I understand this is hysterically funny in context.
One corner of my little attic hideaway.
I’m going to come back here at the end of the trip for another four nights because despite being a third floor walk-up, and despite sharing the bathroom with another guest on the second floor, and a few other little nitty things I’m so comfortable and I totally love the neighborhood.
Off to CAMBERRA now on the bus!
…and a school group here for an outing dressed for the occasion.
Indigenous people occupied this area 40,000+ years ago. There’s a museum here that tells a little about the ancient history but I have to say it’s not a very good museum. I’m sorry about that.
I have to fact-check this memory but I seem to have heard that the Europeans did an even more thorough job of wiping out the Indigenous people in Australia and Tasmania than we did with our own Indigenous people.
There’s a small arch on the sidewalk, go through the arch and you’re here.
What the sign says: CAUTION Heritage Walkways Uneven Surfaces.
June 15
Heading down to the ferry through my neighborhood. Many of these buildings are preserved from back then – the whole story of The Rocks is long and complicated which I will leave for now.
I love that you can surprisingly catch sight of the bridge and the Opera House…
Look who’s lining up. It’s a living organism with many heads and it moves with purpose and enthusiasm. You go girls.
I was going to go to Manly to eat fish at Hugos. But today I remembered that one of my airplane pals (you find such interesting people standing around, stretching and chatting at the toilets) said Oh No you have to eat fish at Doyles in Watson Bay.
So I took a survey of a few people and the consensus was absolute. Go to Doyles in Watson Bay.
So I did and there I am. You can see the city in the middle distance. It’s a 20 minute ferry ride over so even within commuting distance.
He has the face of a Myna, yellow eye-yellow beak but his body is a little too grey. So I don’t know!
Watson Bay is home to Sydney Harbor National Harbor Gap Bluff looking into Sydney Harbor and out to the Tasman Sea.
I sat on a park bench for some time admiring this sky. The layers of the clouds were so engaging and then also I was trying…
…to get this Crested Pigeon to hold still long enough for his crest to stop wobbling.
Coming in on the ferry from Watson Bay.
From Ingalill: “Bit of trivia for you…. did you know that the tiles covering the Opera House are made in Sweden. Höganäs Keramik.” I did not!
I couldn’t do it with the pictures because there are so many EXCELLENT pictures on the internet.
If you have any interest PLEASE ask google for {{vivid Sydney 2017}}
The centerpiece displays are the bridge and the Opera House. The show they produce on the wings of the Opera House is A-MAY-ZING and the bridge follows along.
If you have any interest PLEASE ask youtube for {{vivid Sydney 2017}}
These are not my pictures! These pictures are good!!
The city has taken this idea and run with it big time. SO right up my alley!
These are not my pictures! These pictures are good!!
June 14
Today I did a Top of the Tourist List walk from Bondi Beach to Coogee. On the map 1) Sydney with the bridge, Opera House, and The Rocks where I’m staying 2) Bondi Beach 3) Coogee 4) where I’m going today, to Manly Beach.
I’ve chosen these activities because it will probably not rain and anything can happen with the weather by the time I get back.
I took the bus out to the start of the walk.
Here is looking back to the crescent of Bondi Beach. No People! In nice weather there are people shoulder to shoulder. This is nice weather for me!
And turning around to look forward to the next phase of the walk.
It was mostly an up and down paved trail, also some groomed trail, and a ton of steps.
You can see all the bays from the map above, and each and every one was GORGEOUS and as I understand, packed in summer.
There were still a scattering of surfers in full wetsuits and ear to ear smiles all along the way.
An ibis! I’ve seen hundreds and they fill the city like pigeons. Some nicknames: dumpster diver, flying rat, and tip turkey.
People around here don’t like them very much.
…because that path you see here has now dropped into the sea.
(internet pic)
As for the Waverley Cemetery, here’s what wiki has to say: “The Waverley Cemetery is a cemetery on top of the cliffs at Bronte in the eastern suburbs of Sydney, New South Wales, Australia. Opened in 1877, it is noted for its largely intact Victorian and Edwardian monuments. It is regularly cited as being one of the most beautiful cemeteries in the world.”
It’s true, it’s huge, dense, and gorgeous.
I think he’s a magpie.
Then there was the Parrot Forest. Wow is right.
Looks like a Rainbow Lorikeek to me.
And more. It was bird day alright. Isn’t this an ordinary seagull? He would stomp in the water kicking up mud and then stare like he is now certainly waiting for food.
The internet says Silver Gull.
It was time to head back and as I was puzzling over the schedule at one of the bus stops this sweet gal showed me all the options, we decided on a route, and she walked me to the right place. Thank you sweetie!
I did a bus and a train as easy as could be. But it adds up in cost. I’m used to paying a quarter, senior rate in my town, and I’ve gone through about $40 already including the ride from the airport.
Walking back to my place I passed the deli where I bought delicious food earlier in the day. I had one of those sandwiches and it was perfect.
Yesterday I had another delicious treat, a salad of roasted pumpkin and feta and tomatoes and rocket (what they call arugula).
Food is Super expensive! Other than these I’ve had perfectly good snacks from the market. Today I’m hoping to have a nice fish lunch at Manly…yum.
June 13
My flight arrived at 6:20am and I was settled in my sweet little attic airbnb with a view of the Sydney Harbor Bridge.
I hooked everything up to make sure I was in e-business and then took off in hopes of staying awake until evening. Like that was going to happen, and it didn’t. I was ‘resting’ by 5. Then I woke up in time to take a pill and go back to sleep until 6:30am local time. That is awesome!
Back to the morning when I left the airbnb for my walk into town. Just two blocks and under the bridge…what is this?
…and I watched them roll so so so VERY many kegs of beer into that place. Oh my goodness, this is a Hot Spot. It’s call The Argyle on Argyle Street.
Circular Quay is the modern port and is also part of the area called The Rocks. These are some of the refurbished shops and accommodations towered over by the Central Business District.
It immediately reminded me of Singapore. I haven’t figured out what I want to do about this situation that happens daily, where one new and interesting thing reminds me of another thing. It’s good to use what you’ve learned to put new things in context, but it’s also good to see everything with fresh eyes.
I loved this place: The Museum of Contemporary Art, Australia. The artist Kader Attia had an entire floor devoted to his projects and they were awesome.
Also there were many staff members made up of enthusiastic, knowledgeable youth eager to help and eager to just chat about the artists and their works, and make interesting suggestions about venues to visit that were not yet even on my radar.
His work was emotional without being complicated. He wanted to say something and he said it loud and clear. I’m only showing two of the many projects on display.
From the brochure: Kader Attia, born in 1970, is a French-Algerian artist who explores ideas around colonization, identity, repair and reparation.” I think I saw he was born in France and works in Algeria and Berlin.
This is wiki’s picture and she is always generous. It’s the Sydney Harbor Bridge. The Opera House is on the far left. I walked across that thing today which was not a spectacular challenge. It’s less than half as long as the Golden Gate. It was very good fun.
Here’s a view from one of the Photo Ops. There must be one million of this exact picture floating around the internet.
Off the bridge on the other side I’m now in search of Luna Park whose motto from the 1930s is “Luna Park, Just for FUN!”
I know you’re lovin’ it!
It’s open Fri-Sat-Sun-Mon and since today is Tuesday…
I was happy enough not to be knocking shoulders with a crowd although some kids enjoying themselves would have livened up the place.
I left the park and walked around and under the bridge to catch one of the ferries that would bring me back to Circular Quay. There is a very active ferry system so you can walk walk as much as you want to walk and then there’s always a way to get back.
FROM MY ARRIVAL IN AUSTRALIA, Last Few Days in Sydney Follow
June 11-12
And I’m off!
(I also don’t want to forget my charming and oh-so-satisfying Lyft ride to the airport so I’m going to write it here.)
YES!
The travel-gods smiled upon me and gave me an empty seat for the 15 hour ride. It’s amazing how not-too-hard it is to pass the time when you’re not struggling against someone’s space invasion overreach across the arm rest.
And all the rest of it was sooo easy – money, toilet, ticket and transport card, train (so comfortable and smooth – a private enterprise a guy on the plane told me), and then…
…bam, right out at Circular Quay (not Circle Quay like I’ve been saying to myself for months and btw quay is pronounced key, it just is), and a super easy walk to my Airbnb here in The Rocks district just up the hill from the harbor.
I’ve organized my stuff a little and am about to head out for the day. Gud on ya matey, my new favorite expression.
April 13
I got as far as Oamaru and it was wonderful too. Here’s the common room of the backpacers where I stayed. It was late already so I wanted to take a last chance to see the worlds most rare penguins, the Yellow-Eyes.
Looking along the other side of the street are more of the businesses that would support a real town, not just a tourist town.
I watched them for more than an hour, until it got dark, as they came in and out of the water…
And for that hour they wandered around, visited with each other, took a dip. It was massively massively entertaining.
…and it was actually quite fine in every way except location. It was raining off and all all day and threatening even when it stopped so walking down this hill into town and then back up was not too appealing. Parking in town was madness.
The town itself was indeed appealing and I would have stayed longer except it was here, the next morning, when I realized after talking with my sisters, that I’d better get home.
Driving all day I arrived in Dunedin around 3pm and my first 3 choices of accommodation were full. It was Friday and I would have been better served had I made a reservation.
Here’s where I ended up…
April 12
The backpackers here – you can see the outside from yesterday, was really fun inside, not at all somber like the exterior.
It was today that I talked to my sisters and realized I’d better be heading home.
I needed to start making arrangements and they had no internet at all here and the only place they could suggest was a cafe in town where you could catch the wireless from a business across the street. Other places had internet no problem but only for their own guests or customers.
Since I was so far from where I could return the car I decided to start the journey and find a place with internet to get tickets, make calls, etc.
May 4
This was the last shot from my last night in New Zealand. Thinking everything was ready, the following morning I got up at dawn and spent the next 2 days getting home, because, no, it was not all ready.
I do want to finish that trip some day! First I’ll finish the pix and stories from the 12 days I was there. A project for tomorrow.
April 11
Saying goodbye to my modern-convenience-free cabin. The other side of this sign says ‘Welcome’ and this side says ‘Shalom’.
I came to be fond of this place. I cooked myself a big dinner, like camping out, and stoked the old stove for a toasty fire until I fell contentedly asleep.
During the night I occasionally woke to pounding rain and howling wind. It was fun, but solidified my decision to skip Doubtful Sound and move on north.
Gotta stop for every rainbow. This is the actual town of Manapouri that I mentioned before. It’s got everything a traveler needs – a few gas pumps, some tasty food, and toilets.
NZ is quite coffee mad. I don’t see that there is a predominant chain (but I’ve not been in the cities either.) Every establishment no matter how small or out-of-the way exclaims over its coffee.
You can get a short black (a shot of espresso), a tall black (espresso with water), a flat white (espresso with hot milk, no foam), and then the regular lattes, cappuccinos, etc. I order ‘flat white trim’. Trim is the name for low fat milk. They have all been perfect lovely.
I had several hours before sunset so since I was going to be driving anyway I headed out to the Otago Peninsula nearby renowned for its Royal Albatross Center and Yellow-Eyed Penguin Conservation Reserve.
The wind made you stagger!
To go out into the Albatross reserve you had to pay for a tour, and it was already too late. Some birds were hanging out here – it’s hard to see because…
…they blend right in! They are spectacular in the air, soaring and diving with the drifts, but when I lifted my camera, litterally, I fell down from the wind! Here I could support the camera on a fence post.
The Yellow-Eyed Penguins don’t come in until sundown so I had plenty of time to get to that place on the opposite side of Otago Peninsula. What a pretty drive.
But when I got to the place where you park your car it was raining, the wind was blowing like mad as you can see from the plants there, and it was a 45 minute walk to the blind where you could hope to see some penguins, no guarantees. I punked out without the least hesitation or a second thought.
April 10
I got up at 5am so I could make it out to Milford sound for the first tours. This scene did not bode well for clear skies ahead.
This is Homer Tunnel. Begun in 1935 and finished in 1953, it’s long and dark and pretty freaky.
He sold me a cruise ticket and said I could come back as many times as I wanted until it stopped raining. Of course you can’t keep coming back because if you race along the road the closest accommodation is two hours away.
This is the postcard view of Milford sound.
This is the reality.
Both Milford Sound and Doubtful Sound are not sounds at all but rather fiords. This area of New Zealand is called Fiordlands. The difference is that fiords are created by glaciers as they empty into the sea. Sounds are created by rivers. Who knew.
This weather was not entirely surprising since it rains 6 meters per year in Milford Sound ‘that creates a spectacular deluge of cascading waterfalls…
Driviing back to Manapouri from Milford Sound I stopped often – whenever it wasn’t raining too hard. This is handsome.
So far.
1) 3 nights in Akaroa
2) 1 night in Arthur’s Pass
3) 2 nights in Hokitika
4) 2 nights in Arrowtown
5) 2 nights in Manapouri
I’m staying the 9th and 10th in Manapouri for a visit to Milford Sound and Doubtful Sound weather permitting. We’ll see. The forcast is for rain!
April 9
Today I drove off to the far south. There was a bus load of these cuties pulled over taking pictures of each other. The driver said they were kids from all over the world here on an English study program.
I wonder if they were down the road jumping off a bridge?
The place I chose for tonight and tomorrow night is…here. No electricity, only cold water, stove operated by propane, toilet-shower-fridge in a common building faar from my cabin. This thing cost NZ$30 and I knew these details before I booked.
It’s kind’a like Okie land or something. A few of the other cabins have the backseat of a truck on their porch. But there’s a great view and it smells like country.
That’s right, there IS a laundry line hanging from my porch.
The town consists of a few houses, a few motels, a gas station and a cafe. Really.
This is a brother and sister traveling with the brother’s girlfriend. They must have been traveling together for some time since they made the breakfast, ate it, and cleaned up like a well oiled machine. Their division of labor was easy and exact.
Except for the interest the younger people took in the tv, it was a nice place with park views from every window.
April 8
Here’s where I’ve stayed, in Arrowtown, a super-tricked-out ex-gold mining town made up for the tourists. But it’s small and quiet at night and the scenery is gorgeous.
Except at this backpackers where all the kids are upstairs right now watching tv!
…I also did a harder walk – they even called it a track! Both walks were said on the brochure to be ‘1 hour return’. But since the first was a ‘walk’ I did it in 50 minutes or so and since the second was a ‘track’ it took me Two Hours.
I was lapped by bikers a dozen times.
You can’t see the sheep probably, but there are dozens of them along the dark line in the middle of the picture. They follow each other around like sheep. And they yell like crazy BA-AHAH-aH Ba-AH-AH BA-A-aHH.
I drove into Queenstown to check out the sights. I wanted to see those people who jump off bridges. The town is chock-o-block with the adrenaline set. Young people, seeking adventure.
You know that thing your mother used to say about just because everyone else is jumping off a bridge does that mean you should too?
They do. And they’re mostly very young and I want to say ‘WHERE IS YOUR MOTHER?’