The sunset view from…
The sunset view from our ‘partial-ocean-view’ room.
Around the Golden State. Sequoia, Up The Coast, SF, Napa, and More.
October 2, 2009
After a perfectly gorgeous drive especially the miles along route 46 from Paso Robles, we arrived in Cambria at our home for the next few days.
October 1 (before arriving in Cambria…)
On the way from Death Valley to Cambria, rather than doing an 8-9 hour drive, we stopped for the night in Bakersfield.
That is correct. Bakersfield. Because I wanted to go there. For what seems like forever I’ve been wanting to eat in one of the many Basque restaurants in Bakersfield. And I’ll tell ya, Bakersfield is full of Basque restaurants.
The restaurants most commonly mentioned (and I should add that most are within walking distance of each other) are Wool Growers, Benji’s, Chalet, Noriega, and Pyrenees.
(I got these logos and pics from the internet.)
We chose Noriega’s (also called Eskualdunen Etchea-The Basque People’s House) and it was swell. You sit family style down the length of a huge table and pass the dishes as they come pouring out of the kitchen. There is always more of whatever you want near at hand.
The menu: salad, soup, beans, bread, pickled tongue (quite tasty and a favorite of many), cottage cheese with herbs, salsa, pasta and red sauce, french fries (very excellent), carrot salad, cauliflower with vinegar sauce, blue cheese, beef stew (yum), baked chicken, dessert. Bottles of house red wine line the center of the table.
And what might be missing in quality (the meal costs $20 total) they make up for in charm. Everyone, including our table mates were entirely delightful and every one was from Bakersfield or the surrounding area. Truly, we were the only genuine tourists we could find and that was most surprising of all.
October 31
A busy day of sightseeing ahead! First stop, the Golden Canyon Interpretive Walk. The sky really does look blue like that when it’s clear and bright out and when you’re looking up from a high-walled canyon.
This canyon is just up the road from the Artist’s Palette where I couldn’t get the colors to come out last evening but here they are!
The Harmony Borax Interpretive Trail includes some preserved bits from a Borax operation…
…including the two wagons and water tank the mules hauled for days across the desert to reach the railroads. The water tank is positioned at the back of the load and every single one of these we saw had the exact same configuration, two carts of the same dimention and the water tank.
And our last Interpretive Trail (don’t we love these things at the National Parks?!), The Salt Creek Interpretive Trail.
Here it’s all about the pupfish. From what I remember: Back when Death Valley was a sea there was this fish, the pupfish. Then as the sea disappeared only the pupfish evolved to stay alive in the more and more salty ponds that were left until eventually they evolved into about 7 different species each inhabiting its own salty pond, so the conservation efforts are directed towards protecting them.
This was it, our wildlife sighting. Except for plenty of birds and a few lizards, nada mas.
At Furnace Creek Ranch they have a museum and a lot of the implements of the mining days. (If you don’t know what’s going on in this picture you probably need to stay in school…)
Zabriskie Point.
I’m copying this directly from Ms Wiki because it is interesting and explains a little of why this area seems different from the rest of Death Valley:
“Millions of years prior to the actual sinking and widening of Death Valley and the existence of Lake Manly, another lake covered a large portion of Death Valley including the area around Zabriskie Point….
“This ancient lake began forming approximately nine million years ago. During several million years of the lake’s existence, sediments were collecting at the bottom in the form of saline muds, gravels from nearby mountains, and ashfalls from the then-active Black Mountain volcanic field. These sediments combined to form what we today call the Furnace Creek Formation.”
Of course there’s LOTS more to read on the geology of Death Valley. Books of it. I’m happy when I can remember what Borax is made from.
Then we decided to do some high-end relaxing at the ever so very expensive Furnace Creek Inn where…
…and enjoyed a beautiful sunset on their patio. We’re off tomorrow morning. It’s been grand.
A few comments about food and accommodations in Death Valley. You don’t have a lot of choices. There is camping in giant RV lots, some smaller spots, and some ‘hike ins’.
And then there is 1) Furnace Creek Inn (expensive and lovely with an upscale restaurant but not on the scale of the great National Park lodges), 2) Furnace Creek Ranch (nice enough motel style rooms and a cute little compound of restaurants, general store, pool, museum, etc.), 3) Stovepipe Wells (similar amenities as Furnace Creek Ranch but much less charming), and 4) Panamint Springs Resort (very out of the way and not much to speak of). Really, besides for some general store style food at Scotty’s Castle, that’s it.
So don’t expect much in terms of amenities, just relish in the glory of the vast landscape. You won’t be sorry you went.
October 30
We kicked off today with a visit to one of the prime attractions in Death Valley – Scotty’s Castle…not Scotty’s (it was built and owned by Albert and Bessie Johnson), not a castle (its design, they say, is Spanish Villa), but a prime attraction due to all the stories the guides can tell of its history.
We took both the house tour And the basement tour, the guides decked out in period dress.
Another shot for the setting. As we heard a dozen times, it’s all about the water and the spring that made this possible is still running today.
Next stop, Ubehebe Crater. Yikes!
(Isn’t that pano technology getting Good? If I had cropped out the flying edges I think it would be hard to tell it wasn’t one shot.)
We swung through Stovepipe Wells for a snack before a quick stop by the dunes.
This is it, except for the gas station and general store behind me, this, the motel-restaurant combo is it for Stovepipe Wells. I thought I remembered random buildings scattered around but if there were they are gone now.
Food would not be served until 5:30 but we could come to the Saloon for some bar snacks at 4:30. Which we did. Yes you can make a dinner of chicken wings and a draft beer.
It’s the end of another beautiful day, delighting in one of our many great treasures in the National Park system for which we are grateful and ever so gladly pay our taxes.
October 29 2009
Our entrance to Death Valley – we came in from Las Vegas on the 190 (click on the link for a view of our time in Las Vegas), State Line Road, and a wowzer entrance it was. You know you’re in for something cool.
And speaking of cool, the weather is per-per-PERfect. Cool, bright, still. Perfect!
A shot from the Furnace Creek Visitor’s Center.
We both wanted to be the one who got to use her Senior Lifetime National Park Pass. (When you’re 62 do Not miss your chance to buy one!)
We are staying at the entirely delightful Furnace Creek Ranch (about 3/4 downmarket from the Furnace Creek Inn) and this is the view from our back patio.
It’s getting late in the day and we have time for one good outing and decide to make a dash for Badwater, the lowest point in North America at 282 feet below sea level.
An interesting note from Ms Wiki “This point is only 76 miles east of Mount Whitney, the highest point in the contiguous United States with an elevation of 14,505 feet.” It’s the rain shadow of both the Pacific Coast Range and the Sierra Nevada Range that make Death Valley so very very dry.
…and Sharon holding up a piece of the crusty thick chunk of salt left by the Pleistocene era inland seas.
In the middle of the dark area of the hill you can see the sign that says ‘sea level’.
Wow. We walked all the way to the end of the salt-path.
Then we continued on to the Artist’s Palette which was fairly named as so many surfaces were a-glow in beautiful pastels of pink, blue, orange, and green.
But the pictures, I just can’t get them to work. So here’s this one from the top of a long walk.
And the long shadows of evening sent us home for a nice dinner at the Furnace Creek Ranch Cafe, and a good solid sleep.
Bob and Carl communing with the spirit of the river. We had to climb under some barbed wire to get here, and well worth it it was.
The guys out for a walk. Lew-Ben-Carl-Bob. Jerry was off engaged in some one of the innumerable chores around The Ranch or else he was off plotting a new prank.
There is a large flock of peacocks living on The Ranch (too bad this is my best shot) and their feathers make up a lively decor in many a room.
September 5-7 2009
Nestled in the middle of the far right edge are most of the residences of The Ranch. Ahhh.
Setting up the luncheon buffet in the pool house.
That watermelon is from the garden as are the tomatoes, onions, herbs, salad greens, and ETC!
You can see some of the olive grove in the distance. There are many of these groves scattered around the property.
Lynn at the kitchen in the big house. Usually there are at least five people dancing around in here all working in the measures of some cosmic ballet to produce meal after meal day after day.
There is a kitchen in the pool house, in the guest house, in the houses where all the other people live, and extra storage and refrigeration scattered around in the other buildings. We are talking f.o.o.d.
And speaking of which.
If you’ve ever been to Yellowstone you know that this is how perfectly healthy buffaloes look, all raggedy and lumbering and deeply unintelligent. John uses them to train his cutting horses because they, unlike their much smarter brethren, The Cow (and that’s saying something), never learn.
(Although Ms Google thinks bison are smarter than cows.)
John is the man who has a cutting horse operation and is in charge of the cows, buffaloes, horses, and colts.
Sandy was our make-it-from-scratch Dessert Queen, here with a neighbor who stopped by for the good eats. He was an excellent helper too.
In years past, when everyone’s kids were younger, there would be dozens of them around so this basically adults only weekend was an unusual and not entirely unwelcome change of pace for the regular guests.
We four, me-Carl-Bob-Jerry, took an early evening outing to the local rodeo for some bull ridin’.
We just sat down here in what turned out to be the best box seats in the house, right behind the announcer. You can see folks in the bleachers silhouetted against the sky where we were supposed to be sitting. By the time we got kicked out we were pretty much done with bull riding anyway.
More.
They had it all – the horsemen, the handlers, the clowns. You can see here when I went to a rodeo in Honduras. It’s down toward the middle of the chapter and wow, the difference in Everything is most evident. Just have a look at what the stands are like there for some third world excitement.
And then at intermission – Cowboy Poker. Four guys are sitting at the table with a loose bull and the clowns egging that bull into action. Last man sitting is the winner. Boys will be…
Look what showed up at the door picked this morning directly from the gardens here.
And more came a few hours later!
Here is the front door of the main house. There are many other houses on the property as well including a home for the caretaker family, a home for the man who runs the horse and cattle operation, a big guest house, a barn converted into an 18 bed dorm and game palace when the kids come, and more more more.
And the cows. John keeps them for a year or two and then trades them back, big and fat, for younger ones.
And llamas. The llamas are all rescue animals and are basically some among Barbara’s innumerable pets. Not to forget the donkeys, the chickens, and I never did get a picture of the pet African Pigmy Goat.
I was wandering down the road with Lynn just chatting and looking here and there and Jerry, husband of Barbara, called out, pointing to a clearing high high up on one of the surrounding hills ‘Look–a Deer’.
Wow, a full-on buck deer, so I snapped a dozen quick shots sure he’d bolt in a flat second, but no, he just stood there. And stood there. Oh you Jerry, what a card. Then he sent one of the workers up to get the deer and off they went in the truck to find a new Jerry-inspired placement.
There are a couple of dogs that live here this being the newest, a full Border Collie.
I’ve always wanted to meet one of these guys who top all the smart-dog lists and Ringo here is quite the model, utterly devoted to Barbara yet still willing to play fetch with anyone over and over and over and over and over and…
Here is a white peacock that was abandoned by his mother and that Barbara is raising in a cage in the family room.
Barbara and Jerry’s son Ian and Ian’s friend Johan have been around so Barbara wanted to jump on this chance to get a picture. All the moms know how that goes.
The entry drive is lined with these olive trees, part of the groves that contribute to their boutique organic cold-pressed olive oil business, Oils of Paicines.
Sandy made a painting! What she said: “Here’s a drawing based on a photo from our trip. It’s the shaggy palm ghost chasing the cactus.”
December 25-27
You can click here if you’re interested in Joshua Tree National Park where I and Sandy and Nancy enjoyed two nights of continued JOY and Peace on Earth and plenty of Goodwill to ALL.
And then what’s a road trip without at least a little car trouble? A side trip to Sears in Palm Desert, and 500 bucks later…we back on the road, and home snug in our beds before 10pm, happy in the marvels of Joshua Tree National Park, and brakes that work.
Today’s first stop, White Tank campground and hike to Arch Rock. We all agreed the campground is utterly amazing and the walks are perfect.
The camp sites are each nestled into protected areas of parking, tent pitching, picnic table, campfire ring, and cooking grill. There are only 25 sites, no water, and a few chemical toilets, but so cozy we all want to stay here.
December 27
Good morning! We’re off for our ambling drive home.
In 1994 the town of Twentynine Palms sponsored a Mural Project, now called ‘The Oasis of Murals’, in hopes of reviving the community. There are a few more than 20 of them now.
Many of these huge projects have a military theme because Twentynine Palms hosts a major military installation (Marine Corps Air Ground Combat Center (MCAGCC)) and the town is full of service people and those who service them.
It’s worth a drive out here just for a look at the murals, but of course don’t miss the park!
Then we drove on through the park, through the two deserts, stopping for a stroll through the Cholla Cactus Garden.
Hi ladies! Notice how it is still cold, but we are no longer entirely bundled-up, swaddled head to toe.
But then the wind calmed down and we were simply Cold, the level of cold we could manage. Joshua Tree is such a marvelous place, so full of Marvels!
And then the walk to Barker Dam. Oh goodie, a giant insect stalking the desert floor.
This configuration changes colors every hour as the sun passes over the rocks and the clouds pass by the sun.
Barker Dam. Do check down this story to my trip with Cynthia in March and you will see an amazing difference.
I copied this quote from the internet…here And in the stroy from March.
“According to legend, Mormon pioneers considered the limbs of the Joshua trees to resemble the upstretched arms of Joshua leading them to the promised land. Others were not as visionary. Early explorer John Fremont described them as “…the most repulsive tree in the vegetable Kingdom.”
We had our Christmas Day dinner at Denny’s, Denny’s being The Only restaurant open within 30 miles as guaranteed by Gavinda, our host at the Circle C.
We had a cutie-pie waiter who was workin’ us for a nice tip. He was a pretty bad waiter but plenty entertaining so he won for that 30% tip on a Denny’s senior special.
BTW – Food! Travel night-dinner at Denny’s(!). Today we ate breakfast at the motel ‘buffet’ which consisted of bagels and peanut butter, lunch at the Crossroads Cafe that was surprisingly delicious, and dinner at the Twentynine Palms Inn which was also delicious but that was what we were expecting. Then we drove back into the park for some stargazing, and then enjoyed the jacuzzi and had hot cocoa and biscotti back at the room. What a great day!
This is the brother of the perfect cat. He has been banished to the outside because of beating up on the very old cat. That’s three cats if you’re counting, and then the two dogs, making five animals to care for. Which is slightly less trouble than previously when seven animals lived here.
I should tell you Michi had a catering company, has taught cooking classes, and makes food that tastes like you are in a dream of Good Food. She has really got the touch. The YUM touch.
So while I was there I was treated to a dish after dish dinner party…