Central and South America

A local guy with a USA t-shirt and a pony-dog. The guy wanted to take my picture with the dog but I couldn’t get the dog’s slobber face out of my crotch long enough to give the guy the camera.

I made my way to near the end of the crowd and thought I’d better head back as it was getting late, the police presence was increasing, and I felt it was time to leave.

I emerged from the subway at my station and YIKES the place, at about 7pm was insanely unexpected with multiple political groups, not just the Bolsonaro people and the ground was ankle-deep in the detritus of eating and drinking.

There were a dozen of these carts selling liquor of every type and some specializing in…

…Caipirinha, the national drink of Brazil.

On that note I wove my way through the crowds to my hotel. And the next morning it was all swept up. That was about as amazing as the mess itself.

…and there are murals and vendors all along the street that leads to the stairs.

Lerk; Duex; Jainin; Fakir

September 28

The inset is from wiki as is the following: “Escadaria Selarón, also known as the ‘Selaron Steps’, is a set of world-famous steps in Rio de Janeiro, Brazil. They are the work of Chilean-born artist Jorge Selarón who claimed it as “my tribute to the Brazilian people”.”

I’m never getting to look at it like wiki did!

Remember the first evening when I took a picture of that maybe scary looking side street around the corner from my hotel? This is the next street over…

A few of the highlights from my neighborhood – my hotel, the arches, the Cathedral, the buildings with the cross cut out, the Selaron Steps to my left, and the Petrobras building is just off to the right. The park is further to the right and behind.

If you want to stay at the beach there are plenty of options but if you want to be within walking distance of so much good stuff, and seven minutes to the Metro, I highly recommend Lapa for a home base.

Strolling around Lapa one finds so many lines for delicious-looking foods that I couldn’t stand in them all. I was trying to figure out what this was and one of the women in the surrounding crowd poked me in the arm, put her finger to her lips and said YES. OK then.

They pour a tapioca batter into a ring on the grill, add fillings, cook, flip, fold into a taco shape, et voila! I asked for the most popular one. I have no idea what was in it but it was very good.

This is the Petrobras building. When I was driving in from the airport the Uber guy was all about Petrobras and corruption. He felt very strongly on this topic!

A view into my neighborhood from the Santa Teresa Tram that runs over the arches and into Santa Teresa.

“The Santa Teresa Tram… that connects the city centre with the primarily residential, inner-city neighbourhood of Santa Teresa, in the hills immediately southwest of downtown. It is mainly maintained as a tourist attraction and is nowadays considered a heritage tramway system, having been designated a national historic monument in 1988.

“Having run continuously since its opening in 1877 (except for a 2011–15 suspension), it is one of the oldest street railway lines in the world and having been electrically powered since 1896, it is the oldest electric railway in all of Latin America. It is also the only remaining metropolitan tram system in Brazil.”

I did my thing – find the nicest hotel, buy a beverage, and enjoy!

Plumeria bloom here too.

There were some longer views but it was very cloudy with pretty constant sprinkles.

It was fun to take this slow open air ride though the hills behind my hotel. Although it is mostly for tourists there were a few local people who got off and on.

A view down one of the residential streets.

I don’t know what the green building is.

Tarm; Marcelo Ment

This was unexpected, to get a clear view of the cathedral and the bell towner.

The sprinkles were turning into rain and I judged that the local people knew best since all the street vendors were covering up with plastic so I decided to enjoy a leisurely meal and make it an early night.

In the foreground you can see those pod shaped guys on a post. Public telephones! They are clustered on most corners. Nina said the city tried to take them out but the hue and cry brought them back.

Wark Rocinha

VeeVee and I wanted to see Olympic Boulevard, a big art project created at the pier and warehouse district for the 2016 Olympics. So Nina said sure, let’s go! What a gal.

This is a monumental work by Eduardo Kobra, a world-renowned Brazilian graffiti artist and was the largest mural in the world at the time. He’s from Sao Paulo, not Rio, much to Nina’s chagrin.

“The work depicts a Tajapo boy from Brazil, a Mursi woman from Ethiopia, a Kayin woman from Thailand, a Supi man from Northern Europe, and a Huli man from Papua New Guinea. They represent humanity’s common ancestors, the indigenous people from America, Asia, Europe, Africa and Australia.”

I got this from the internet because I couldn’t get a full shot myself and it’s necessary to feel for the scale.

wiki.

September 27

Yesterday I walked around Tijuca (pronounced something like tze-zoo-ka) with Nina and it was so interesting.

Today VeeVee from France joined me and Nina for a longer outing including Metro, walking-walking, and car rides.

We really got around including driving the entire stretch from Leblon-Ipanema-Copacabana-Leme, from lifeguard stations 1-12 with each station having it’s own personality. Look it up so when you choose a beach, you’ve got one that suits your interests, or just stroll along and stop when it feels right.

We started in the area around the General Osorio Metro station.

Carlos Bobi; MZ

One of the very rare site specific pieces we saw. Nina searched this one out because she knew I’d like it. Mostly we have artists painting on long walls one piece next the other, all friends who often merge their works.

Here’s a bit of the beach with the Two Brothers in the foreground and the Vidigal Favela between them and another mountain whose name I can’t remember right now.

Remember the snack man from yesterday? Nina brought snacks for us that she said was the most local and most addictive snack in Rio. Yes, the two were the same, so it must be true!

She was just doing this!

Camila Camiz

Olympic Boulevard has much more on it than the painted warehouses. The area was cleaned up for the Olympics and that wasn’t so long ago.

There was the Olympics in 2016 and the World Cup in 2014 and a lot of the new infrastructure and decorations were built for these occasions. Like Nina likes to say, not for the people.

Avilherme “Billy the Kid”; Gola

Nice. We especially like the guy at the bottom with his eye patch.

Wark Rocinha

Check out her scarves.

Gilzin Faria

Us! VeeVee, me, Nina.

Rafamon

On our walk along the edge of downtown, back to the car, we passed this…

…and THIS!

Cosmo Nauta

The election for President is 9 days away and it’s a Very Big Deal with it seems the choice between a Communist who is in jail, and a ‘man’ who prides himself on out-Trumping Trump.

So…

I’m not sure if this is going to be one of my places, but it was cool and quiet and a nice spot to relax after the long day.

September 26

To all my family and friends who worry about my flips, I’ve gone over to my trail runner’s shoes. Why? Because this is a good part of the sidewalk.

Pay Attention! No Falling!

I walked over to the Museum of Modern Art and got my first glimpse of the sea.

I’ve seen this rabbit/hare in other places sitting on a different base. Handsome, isn’t he.

I couldn’t stop looking at this picture. Uma amor impossivel. A bela lindonéia. Trying to find out more about it, turns out it’s been used as the cover of an album.

It’s by Rubens Gerchman, called Lindonéia – a Gioconda do subúrbio,, 1966. Lindonéia – Mona Lisa of the Periphery.

Me, in front of a video installation.

On the way back to the hotel I stopped at my snack man, he’s my snack man now because we discussed all the snacks, me in Spanish with a bit of English, he in Portuguese with a bit of English, and it was so much fun.

I’ve been speaking Spanish a lot more frequently than I thought I would but for people who don’t speak so much English it seems they can more easily understand my school girl Spanish and I can even get a little of the gist in Portuguese. What fun!

Next stop, Street Art Tour!

I’m going to ask Nina for the names of the artists because no way could I remember.

Miguel Vida One Love

Carlos Joint; Minion; Nadi; Trapa Crew; Hifael; Leco; Cast

Universo Acme

Nina! of Rio Street Art Tours. What a charmer and so knowledgeable. We had a wonderful day and we’re going to have a wonderful day tomorrow too.

Aira Ocrespo

Swingin’ Nina.

Marcelo Echo

Nina didn’t know this artist. I don’t have anything of rat-guy, Mel/ton-Joffily

…I and the lovely Nina, enjoying some really super delicious and icy-cold beer and…

…talking about this huge piece across the street. Each character is painted by a different artist and Nina knew them all.

…eating yummy sardines. This is the second time I’ve eaten these fried sardines, once yesterday too in a different place, because they are delicious, and…

Time for a break and here’s the cutie-pie fellow running the bar and snack stand where we spent a fine lazy hour…

I like this one too. And if there are two there are probably more.

Catedral Metropolitana de São Sebastião do Rio de Janeiro and you can see the bell tower on the left.

Not my picture, I got it off wiki because I wanted to set the stage for this amazing amazing building you see in the middle.

wiki.

September 25

I flew down to Brazil in relative luxury since for both flights the middle seat was empty. Oh JOY. We arrived on time, I had a totally delightful uber ride to town, and by late morning was settled into my hotel.

My goals for the day were to get money, get a map, and get orientated. I spent so much time looking for and failing to find a map that I did get a little orientated to my neighborhood.

A look into a back street off the main boulevard. I’ve got some exploring ahead!

My park, Praça PASSEIO PUBLICO, just across the street from the hotel.

More of the park. It’s a full block and according to wiki, built after 1779, it is the oldest public park in Brazil and one of the oldest in the Americas.

Old as it is it has fallen into disrepair and been renovated many times in its long life.

Municipal Theater of Rio de Janeiro, “built in the beginning of the twentieth century, it is considered to be one of the most beautiful and important theatres in the country.

“The building is designed in an eclectic style, inspired by the Paris Opéra of Charles Garnier. The outside walls are inscribed with the names of classic Eurocentric & Brazilian artists. It is located near the National Library and the National Fine Arts Museum, overlooking the spacious Cinelândia Square.”

Caixa Cultural Center, and there on the front steps…

…these guys were having a rally but I had no idea of the topic.

The presidential election is coming up in less than two weeks but unfortunately I’ll miss it. According to my airport uber driver there has been a centrist president for the last year and a half but there is a candidate with the same polemical style as Trump running and he has some chance of winning much to the dismay of everyone not of the far right persuasion.

Coxinha, of course I have to have one of these. It’s pronounced ko-she-nyha.

“The coxinha is based on dough made with wheat flour and chicken broth and optionally mashed potato, which is filled with shredded spiced chicken meat, or a whole chicken thigh. The filling consists of chicken, and onions, parsley and scallions, and occasionally tomato sauce, turmeric and catupiry cheese. The coxinha is coated in batter, then in bread crumbs or manioc flour and deep fried. The dough used to coat the filling is generally prepared with the broth of the chicken, enhancing the flavor of the coating.”

I bought the smallest quantity, two, I ate one and it was crunchy and chewy and interesting. I gave the second one to a panhandler on the street who did not seem pleased.

That’s the Cathedral on the left and appropriately my first glimpse of Christ the Redeemer up there overlooking the city since 1931.

…it looks like this. I gasped. It’s so close to me I’ll probably drop by again.

It’s new, “…designed by Edgar de Oliveira da Fonseca in a modern style based on Mayan architectural style of pyramids. Built between 1964 and 1979 this cathedral replaced as seat of the Archdiocese a series of churches that had served as cathedrals since 1676.”

Inside…

My hotel is on the right where it says Hotel, in the Lapa district of Central Rio de Janeiro.

Lapa according to Lonely Planet: “On the southwestern edge of Centro, Lapa is a ramshackle neighborhood that’s also the epicenter of Rio’s nightlife, with dozens of samba-filled bars and clubs, and late-night street parties. Uphill from Lapa, Santa Teresa is a picturesque neighborhood of winding streets and old mansions that have been restored by the many artists and bohemian characters who have settled there.”

How did I end up here? Night life and hill climbing? Still I’m very happy with the neighborhood if the first day says anything.

Carioca Aqueduct and also called Arcos da Lapa built in the mid-1700s to bring drinking water to the city. There’s a tram that runs on top of the aqueduct that goes up to Santa Teresa and I hope to ride it one day.

Behind the arches you can see a beehive/pyramid looking building. It’s the Cathedral!

I like how they painted the shadow of nonexistent buildings.