El Chepe

(The first three pictures are from the internet.)

A summary introduction from Wiki: “The Ferrocarril Chihuahua al Pacífico (Chihuahua-Pacific Railway), also known as El Chepe from its reporting mark CHP, is a major rail line in northwest Mexico, linking the city of Chihuahua to Los Mochis, and its port, Topolobampo. It crosses part of the range that in the United States is called the Rocky Mountains. There is no road covering the trajectory.

“It runs 673 km (418 mi), traversing the Copper Canyon, a rugged series of canyons that have led some to call this the most scenic railroad trip on the continent. It is both an important transportation system for locals and a draw for tourists.

“The tracks pass over 37 bridges and through 86 tunnels, rising as high as 2,400 m (7,900 ft) above sea level near Divisadero (the continental divide), a popular lookout spot over the canyons. Each one-way trip takes roughly 16 hours. The track also crosses over itself to gain elevation.”

We rode from El Fuerte to Divisadero, about 7 hours, and on the way back from Divisadero to Los Mochis, about 9 hours. I couldn’t capture any of the drama of the train itself from inside so these first three pictures are from the internet.

All Aboard! (First Class All The Way)

Oh man this was awesome to stand there in the last car, all the windows open clickety-clackin’ along. I didn’t have it mostly to myself for too long, but long enough that I can still imagine the feeling.

The next two pictures show the most dramatic bridge, part of the switchbacks that move the train top to bottom and bottom to top.

We ate lunch in the First Class Dining Room. There was so much lurching and swaying going on up there that we passed on eating lunch in the Dining Room on the way back.

Our first introduction to a scene repeated often, local folk selling handmade baskets of this particular type made using needles from the Apache Pine Tree and the split leaves of the Sotol Cactus. While sometimes referred to as Tarahumara after the region, the Rarámuri is their own name for themselves, meaning “those who run fast”. There’s a 2009 NY Times bestseller by Christopher McDougall about their extraordinary running called Born to Run: A Hidden Tribe, Superathletes, and the Greatest Race the World Has Never Seen which I am tempted to read.

Everyone was buying baskets and continued throughout the trip. Maybe Michi will send me a picture of all the baskets she bought!

The view from my room.

Tour itinerary:

7:00 am Breakfast at the Hotel included. Leave your luggage outside your room before breakfast. The bellboys will pick it up and load it onto the bus.
8:00 am Hotel check-out deliver your room key at the front desk
8:15 am Departure to the train station
9:20 am The train departs from El Fuerte heading to Divisadero on a spectacular journey through Copper Canyon. This engineering marvel named the most dramatic train ride in the Northern Hemisphere by Reader’s Digest, climbs from sea level to nearly 8,000 feet, crossing 86 tunnels and 40 bridges.
Lunch on board the train on your own
4:15 pm Arrival in Divisadero then transfer to Hotel Mirador Barrancas. Located in one of the most scenic spots in the canyon, the hotel offers amazing views of the Tararecua, Copper, and Urique Canyons right from your room balcony. The stunning views make the journey truly special. The hotel has a calm and relaxing atmosphere, perfect for enjoying the beautiful surroundings. You can watch local Tarahumara women weaving their traditional Sotol leaves and Apache Pine baskets at the hotel entrance.
5:30 pm Lecture about the origin of the Copper Canyon and the Raramuri Culture
7:00 pm Dinner at the hotel included (drinks are not included)

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Part of our introduction was this woman showing us how to start a basket. It was interesting to see and fun because it was the boy’s birthday and they both seemed to get a kick out of all the Happy Birthdays! coming their way.

They are selling handmade baskets at every corner but I got attracted to the cat below, made by the husband of the woman above!

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