Finally we walked on…
Finally we walked on the last leg of the Ke Ala Hele Makalae.
In this section the sea is wild and the land uninhabited…
Finally we walked on the last leg of the Ke Ala Hele Makalae.
In this section the sea is wild and the land uninhabited…
…except for the birds. The birds were loving this place. And notice the wildflowers in the foreground. Spring!
There is an old structure here, the Pineapple Dump. Really. That wooden ramp-like thing was built so that the detritus from the pineapple processing plant could be easily dumped into the ocean.
This is probably the last picture of me from this trip. Ok ok it’s true, it’s not just Sharon and it’s not just Kaua’i…photoshop made me look this good. Aloha!
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March 27
We were going to the Hyatt to see what was up with the Prince Kuhio celebrations, took a wrong turn, and ended up here, at Prince Kuhio Park where a genuine local celebration was in progress.
I think we missed a big group of male dancers that was leaving as we arrived.
Many groups then came forward to place their lei on the memorial, sing a song (they all sang a song!), and one member of each group would say a few words. It was very cool.
Who are these ladies dressed entirely in black muumuus with the yellow/orange leis? More about that later.
And another group. There were many groups and it seemed these were all civic clubs each speaking of what they did for the community and how they were glad to have this opportunity to honor Prince Kuhio as they had every year. They were especially glad this year because of the tent to sit under.
If you’re interested to read the wiki article about Prince Kuhio it’s full of complex genealogies and political intrigue.
Basically…”Prince Jonah Kûhiô Kalanianaʻole Piʻikoi (1871–1922) was a prince of the reigning House of Kalâkaua when the Kingdom of Hawaiʻi was overthrown by international businessmen in 1893. He later went on to become a politician in the Territory of Hawaii as delegate to the United States Congress, and as such is the first native Hawaiian and only person ever elected to that body who was born a royal.”
I do sometimes get a little grumpy about those muumuus reminding me as they do of missionaries who Always know in every single detail just Exacty what YOU better be doing (or it’s hellfire for you!). But I digress.
The ladies in the black muumuus have taken this bird as their symbol. I couldn’t quite get what it is they do as a group. Here’s what the picture says:
“The Mamo, a honeycreeper, subsisted almost entirely on nectar, and was especially partial to tubular flowers of several species of lobelias. The Mamo was highly prized for the few yellow feathers it grew at the base of its tail. The birds were not common and the last specimens were collected about 1907. No one has seen a Mamo since that time.”
All through the lobby and courtyard areas they had set up tables of local crafts and with each display someone was there to tell you about it.
This woman was sweet but her mama was fabulous. She showed us what she was doing in interesting detail and we chatted about what we had just seen at the park. She then explained about the women in the black muumuus, coming up next!
The great Hawaiian nose flute! It really did sound gorgeous, like a recorder but with a fuller, rounder tone I think.
We then went on to the Hyatt were it is always a delight to sit in their open-air lobby and enjoy live entertainment.
The celebrations here, and I should say not surprisingly, took the form of shopping opportunities.
Puka Dogs! But we didn’t have a puka dog. Instead we had a really delicious shave ice, easy on the syrup, with a scoop of ice cream in the bottom of the dish. Ahh, shave ice perfection.
Three days ago we drove down this very road and these trees were empty. It’ll be April in a couple days and here come the flowers…Watch Out!
I did a little side excursion to stand on the bridge that crosses the Wailua River. It’s a bit dangerous because there has been a huge construction project on this (actually rather small) bridge for as long as I can remember. One of the guidebooks says it should be finished sometime around the arrival of the next ice age.
On the left you can see Smith’s Landing. On the lower right is the public beach and launch site for kayaks. The houses that front the river follow upstream.
Then if you look at the mountain ridge at the middle right you will see Sleeping Giant. Sleep tight Sleeping Giant!
Tonight we had a major festivity over here – a big party and I have not one picture. How did that happen? The guests included Kenny, Cathy, Ryan, Sharon (the other Sharon), and Bob. We ate, we drank, we made merry.
March 25
From yesterday’s trip to the farmer’s market. I don’t remember the names of the odd ones and to be Perfectly Frank, only the papaya was particularly tasty, and it was actually overripe.
Then we went to the local Safeway where all the fruit was delicious.
An early morning shower usually = an early morning rainbow, from the river-facing lawn.
See Smith’s Landing over there across the way…
…here is the house from there.
We went on the Smith’s tour this time for the first time for me. Yup, we never before quite made it over there for the ride.
(I seem to be obsessing on this pano business. It really is a lot of fun to do.)
They have a nice little tour that takes you to the Fern Grotto. We were lucky to be a very small group so everyone got to spread out and to move around to take their pictures.
…another downpour! Everyone rushed to huddle under a couple big umbrellas. Here’s our guide and the head of our entertainment troop.
“Don’t worry, it’ll be over soon. Yes, I can hear it, it’ll be over soon…” and it was.
You can see at the back of the boat, the old diesel engine that puffs some serious nasty into the air. They could do something about that!
It was Great! For $18 you get a really nice entertainment.
They do a good-guide rap on the way up, the guy who walks through the garden with you is very knowledgable and likes to tell jokes, and on the way back they sing, dance, and tell stories. Short, but umm tasty sweet.
March 24
We are on our third visit to the Hindu Monastery this trip with the pictures spread around in their day. I might try to gather them all together. A thought anyway.
Every tourist on every Hawaiian island Will visit Hilo Hattie’s at least once and at that time said tourist will be gifted with a Hilo Hattie’s shell lei. At last, something to do with those shell leis.
We took the actual tour this time and got to see much more of the gardens. They were fantastic.
We got poured on a couple times, real cloud bursts. The ‘know before you go’ guide on their website warned that because of the location of the monastery it rained particularly often so most people were prepared. Even Ganesha here.
March is really not a good time for flowers in Kaua’i but they had some good hits here.
The distant view of the new temple under construction for many years now with a projected completion date of 2017.
They are slowly building this temple, importing materials carved in India and Indian craftsmen are in Kauai putting the temple together on site.
This guy had the pride of place at the new site. I really like his feet, and the flower they’ve tucked into his ankle.
That’s our tour guide in the white. It was a huge group, around 80 people, far too many to get a lot out of the narative. From what I did hear he was passionate and knowledgable. I would recommend going even though it wasn’t perfect.
…a drive-about. We just look for roads and drive on them. We were in the back country above Kapa’a. Cool!
Then we went to the Farmer’s Market and then home to eat what we had bought…pictures tomorrow.
March 23
I’m sure I’ve mentioned before the rule in Hawai’i that all beaches must have public access. Sometimes they make that access 1) a mystery to find and 2) once found nearly impossible to navigate.
Not so here in Kapa’a, behind the Coconut Marketplace.
This section of beach through Kapa’a is entirely fronted by hotels, timeshares, and condos, some of very classic old Hawaiiana style, which makes it a delight to walk through with its shade trees, tidy paths, handsome buildings, and gorgeous waterfront.
Here we are at the entrance to the old Ahukini Pier at the southern end of Hanamaʻulu Bay, just south of the Lihu’e airport. You can see the harbor beacon at the end of the jetty.
The sugar folk used this pier for the ships that took their cargo to the mainland as it was the only deep water port in Kaua’i until, after WWII and the construction of the newer bigger better port at Nawiliwili this facility was abandonded, and then mostly dismantled by the late 1970s.
Wow, the whole story in one sentence…
March 21
We said Aloha and Bon Voyage to Chris and Janis. It’s been an exceptionally fine week. You can read about it here at this link: Congratualtions Chris On Your Retirement! Enjoy!
The next day, on the 22nd, Sharon and I did absolutely nothing what-so-ever At All. I didn’t go out of the house. We took a day to just absorb all that FUN we had had the previous week!
March 21
It’s Aloha, Mahalo, and Bon Voyage to Chris and Janis. Mazel Tov Chris on your upcoming retirement and for giving us such a fine opportunity to celebrate.
The girls have bestowed all their leis upon the spirit house, thanking her for letting us be here, and in her honor doing their very best huki-huki-huki-hukilau.
We ate at Duke’s for the view, the ladies went shopping, and we got pizza in for our last night together.
And had a little pass at the hukilau hula as in ‘we’re going to a hukilau’. We’re intently watching the computer play the dvd lesson. Another few weeks and we’d ‘a had it.
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March 20
Starting today Kauai is celebrating Prince Kuhio Week. We got out of the house relatively early so we could catch the longboat races and it was fun.
By good fortune alone, since all the directions we could find were wrong, we ended up at the women’s and mixed crew’s finish line just as the first boats were coming in.
Those three ladies were the judges marking down the boats as they passed the buoy indicating the finish line.
This felt like a local event and all in good fun. Maybe all the wrong directions were to keep the tourists away? It was tons of fun to overhear people talking to each other in the island patois of family and friends.
Then we moved on to where the men were gathering to start their race. Sometimes the boats are called longboats, sometimes outriggers, sometimes canoes. In the write-up in the paper and online they called this a long-distance canoe race.
There were maybe 8-12 boats participating, 6 oars per crew. The race started not from the beach as I expected but out there by the lighthouse.
Then they paddled hard in open sea for a very long time. We didn’t wait it out for their return but by three hours there was still no sign of them.
The beach above is part of the Marriott complex. (All the beaches are public by the way, it’s the law.)
That boat, oar, and surfboard are all historic pieces lovingly displayed in their lobby. The boats used in today’s races are the same basic design as this one which was built in … I forget … but it’s plenty old.
(Another one of my new lobby-shots technique. I’m going to be doing these babies a Lot.)
On the grounds of the Marriott, famous for the frenzy they generate every day when they feed the koi.
This camel is rather handsome I think.
March 19
Egret. Whenever someone sees an egret she says “egret” because they are so entertaining to watch. Most often you see them on the ground, standing on one thin leg, always apart from one another, motionless. Or standing on the back of a cow.
We mostly tootled around today, a stop here and there, and I apparently didn’t take a picture at each stop so I forget where we stopped and it’s only the next day!
We did another Lydgate walk, the first for Chris and Janis because no trip to Kauai is complete without a Lydgate walk.
Resting along the way.
We ate lunch out today. We’ve been eating out only once a day at most and at home the rest of the time because it is just so nice to be home and with four people pitching in with cooking and cleaning the whole meal-deal goes quite happily, with ease and camaraderie. Impressively so I would say.
This evening Chris and Janis played a few rounds of mini-golf out in the back yard.
This is a true fact. Chris dropped her first ball, wacked it with her club, and it went in the hole. A hole in one on her first swing. A true fact.
This time of year in Kauai the bloomers are not yet blooming. Even last year when we came in April there were more blooming than in March.
Most of the color you see now are the few hibiscus that give off flowers year around and these ti plants that grow everywhere and glow from pale pink to deep purple. And every green in the rainbow of course. Green is a color.
Follow the arrow. What you can’t see there is blown up in the inset. The rare and protected nesting Albatross. They’ve got a fence around that whole meadow in an effort to keep out predators.
March 18
Today’s first stop – The Kilauea Lighthouse, favored spot for wind, to catch a passing whale, and to marvel at the sea birds that swoop and caw overhead.
Leaving the lighthouse and traveling on to Hanalei we pass by this view of a mountain of waterfalls. Water, essential for the Garden Isle.
It has rained every day but we’ve been lucky in not getting rained out of anything really. It would have been nice for Chris and Janis if we’d got more sun but all in all, and what with what it could have been, we’re feeling lucky.
And then we drove the few blocks to Hanalei Bay where she washed that man right out of her hair.
On the way back we stop at the newly reopened Princeville Hotel now named the St Regis Princeville Resort.
We didn’t see any difference in the structures but all the decor is new. Do we like it better? Probably not but oh well.
I made this picture myself!
This is the last bit that lets you know you’re in Hawaii except of course for looking out the windows that cover the entire back wall facing Hanalei Bay.
And here’s a view of their semi-private beach.
They’ve got all the rest that you would expect of a many-starred resort and I’m sure it is a pleasure to stay here. We were really happy when we got ‘home’.
March 17
Here’s a picture from Sharon’s camera, from the Luau, us, way too cute.
Kicking off another big day, we swung by the Wailua Falls. And mighty grand they are.
Next stop, the little cutie-pie touristified village of Koloa where they have retained one chimney of the first sugar mill in Kauai and built a memorial to all those who worked the mills.
from The Internet: “The Sugar Monument itself is a circular, concrete sculpture suggesting a mill stone. Inside, there is a captivating bronze sculpture depicting the eight principal ethnic groups that brought the sugar industry to life (Hawaiian, Caucasian (this guy is missing from the sculpture!), Puerto Rican, Chinese, Korean, Japanese, Portuguese, and Filipino).”
Check out the chicken at the lower right. Even back then, chickens…
The sign says ‘Koloa Historic Center’ and they’ve got some interesting stuff in there.
I added this guy but deleted one of the others. There is a maximum number of chickens that one is willing to look at and in this story I had reached that number already.
Here we board the Holo Holo catamaran for our dinner and sunset cruise and what was to be a tour of the Na Pali coast but turned out to be a whale watching adventure since the Na Pali side was, according to the boat folks, too rough to visit.
Look! Goats! The captain was so pleased to call out. From the boat those guys looked like specks and only folks with binoculars could confirm the sighting.
We can see them here because of full on zoom and full on clipped in the computer. But he was right. Goats.
We and several other boats like this were gathered around watching the whales of which there were many many and of which I got not one shot. But it was cool too see them.
We also got a nice sea turtle sighting.
There were local arts and crafts out on the lawn.
“Wow” I said, “your flowers are fab”. “Michaels, on the mainland” she replied.
One block from the house is this heiau, or sacred place, one of the seven along this stretch of road. In this location you also find the birthing stone upon which it was required that all future kings of Kauai be born.
Just above the heiau and the birthing stone you climb a few flights of stairs to reach this old Japanese cemetery.
It’s not huge but it is so interesting to look around. With the exception of 5 or so more recent markers, the graves do not show dates past the 1950s yet many are freshly decorated.
From the Japanese Cemetery looking to the left is the start of the palm trees that grow in the abandoned and nasty old, but once elegant Coco Palms Hotel.
To the right is where the riverfront begins with a small plot of State Park for public access and where on occasion roudy youth disrupt the calm.
…and across the road looking down you can see the Wailua river that runs past the house. That is an example of the long outriggers that pass by on their training runs several times a day.
Next we made another stop up at the Hindu Monastery so Chris and Janis could have a look even if all we got to see was this guy.
Our evening’s activity was this: a LUAU!
There are four prominent luau offerings on Kauai, each a little different, all for the tourists. We picked this one based on some local recommendations and it was entirely fun. I won’t complain about the kitschy inauthentic-ness of the whole enterprise because what do you expect when you go to a luau for tourists. A tourist luau.
And for that it was particularly good I thought. The food was tasty with entertainments throughout from the minute you get in your first line. And we got GREAT seats and had an unobstructed view from less than 15 feet away. We could really get into it.
(This is the Luau Kalamaku at the Kilohana Plantation btw.)
They did the show as a story of one family who settled in Kauai, arriving by longboat seeking a better life.
…and some great fire action at the end. It was a real hit and packed a lot of wow for this relatively modest show’s grand finale.
March 14-15
Aloha! Welcome to Sharon’s sister-in-law Chris and Chris’s friend Janis. ALOHALadies!
We decided to go to Waimea Canyon first because it is such a phenomonal thing to see. This is not Waimea Canyon but on the way, and it’s nice too, of Kauai’s red dirt which is absolutely everywhere.
The classic view. Very fortunately we got to see the clouds lift for this sight. Unfortunately it was the only moment we were up there when it wasn’t raining pretty hard so we missed the other viewing opportunities.
Just this though was worth the drive.
We were home by 6 for an easy and pleasant evening, looking forward to more big fun tomorrow.
We ate lunch at the canyon, in Koke’e State Park where the Splendid Red Jungle Fowl are especially plentiful, fed as they are by the tourists.
Coming back we drove as far north as you can coming along the west side of the island. There’s a military base that carefully controls access these days.
And speaking of the military, we did a little drive-by of the old Russian Fort.
And later we enjoyed the sun further inland a bit at Hanapepe, and even crossed the swinging bridge just for the heck of it.
March 13
In the far distance, Mount Wai’ale’ale from the river side of the house, one of the rarest sights in Kaua’i as the peak is so often hidden by clouds, raining nearly every day as it does, and the wettest place on earth.
We check every morning and clap delightedly when she reveals herself. Quick Quick, a Photo!