Yesterday’s guide picked me up around 10:30 and we raced through this itinerary. Fortunately I had the next day free so I could go back. This is looking like a theme here, go-go-go through the historic center and then go back to quietly get the feel. This is what the guide was going to show me of the Historic Old City. You can guess how much of it I’ll remember!
Holy Bukhara, homeland of Ibn Sino (Avicenna), loved city of all saints and worldwide known philosopher – cheery Khodja Nasriddin, lively, noisy and luxurious capital of Emirs, rich man of all nationals and patrons. Full day city tour in Bukhara: visit to Citadel Ark (IV c.) – city in a city, Bolo-Khauz Mosque (beginning of XX c.), Ismael Samani Mausoleum (the tomb of representatives of Samanids’ dynasty at the end of IX –beginning of X cc.), Poyi Kalon Ensemble (Pedestal of the Great) – religious heart of sacred Bukhara that consists of Minaret Kalon (XII c.), Kalyan Mosque (XII c.) and Miri Arab Madrasah (XVI c.), Ulugbek Madrasah (1417), Abdulaziz Khan Madrasah, Magoki-Attori Mosque (XII-XVI cc.), Kosh-Madrasah Ensemble that consists of Madari-Abdullakhan Madrasah, Lyabi-Khauz Ensemble (XIV-XVII cc.), Nodir Divanbeghi Madrasah, (Abdullakhan’s mother) and Abdullakhan Madrasah.
From my hotel it’s a 2 minute walk to the edge of the historic center. From unesco.org:
“The historic center of Bukhara, which is situated on the Silk Route, is more than 2,000 years old. It is the most complete example of a medieval city in Central Asia, with an urban fabric that has remained largely intact. Monuments of particular interest include the famous tomb of Ismail Samani, a masterpiece of 10th-century Muslim architecture, and a large number of 17th-century madrasas.”
The rug seller here kept pointing, look, look, and then I found it. Everyone likes to find some nature in the city. The hanging up in the ceiling is part of the Biennial contemporary art event which I will talk about at length tomorrow.
The Magoki-Attori Mosque is one of the oldest surviving architectural monuments in Bukhara. The guide told an entertaining story about how the local people buried the mosque in sand to save it from Genghis Khan’s destructive rampage, but I couldn’t find any confirming story online.
In the foreground are the remains of an original caravanserai, the place where the silk road caravans would rest, eat, and share news before moving on. Behind the remains is a later version that remained active through the years of caravans passing through Bukahara.
A Hammam, oh goodie, but…
…but women’s hours are 8-9pm, that’s it, and not for me.
Outside the walls of the giant, ancient fortress called the Ark of Bukhara.
The Ark of Bukhara, initially built and occupied around the 5th century AD. I was running out of gas looking up at those steps and declined the opportunity to visit the fortress wall.
We decided to head out for lunch and on the way we passed these guys. I slowed way down to admire what they were eating and they instantly passed me a spoon! YUM!
This was our version of the same dish, plov, which I like to eat with the tomato and cucumber salad. This one was ok but the surprise one above, from someone else’s plate was better. I’ve had plov in every city now and will continue to try it I’m sure. It’s the national dish of Uzbekistan and every guide’s wife makes the best, and if he doesn’t have a wife it’s his mother who makes the best.
We took this cart back to the main complex and I collapsed in my room for the rest of the night.
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About the Ark Fortress. Don’t Look If You Hate AI!
The Ark of Bukhara’s timeline spans over 1,500 years, from its ancient origins as a city-within-a-city to its destruction by the Red Army in 1920. The citadel served as the residence for Bukharan rulers and was repeatedly rebuilt after invasions and conquests.
Early history
- 4th–3rd century BCE: Archeological evidence suggests that the earliest foundations for a fortress were laid on the same site during this period.
- 5th–6th century CE: The Ark was formally established as a citadel and is mentioned in historical sources as the residence of the Bukharan ruler, the Bukhar Khudat Bidun.
- 713 CE: The Arabs conquer Bukhara and convert a Zoroastrian temple within the Ark into the city’s first mosque.
- 10th century CE: During the Samanid period, the area outside the Ark’s western gate is developed into Registan Square, the grandest public space in the Islamic world at the time.
- 1220 CE: The Mongol army under Genghis Khan captures Bukhara. The inhabitants who take refuge in the Ark are killed, and the citadel is looted and destroyed.
Dynastic seat of power
- 16th century CE: The Ark begins to take its present form under the Shaybanid Uzbek dynasty. Over the next three centuries, new buildings are constructed within its walls.
- 1742 CE: Nadir Shah of Persia constructs an impressive new entranceway on the western side of the Ark.
- 1753 CE: The Manghit dynasty establishes its rule. The Ark continues as the center of power and becomes the seat of the Emirate of Bukhara.
- 19th century CE: The Ark gains a notorious reputation for its dungeon, the Zindan, where political prisoners and foreign visitors are held in horrific conditions.
- 1860s CE: As part of “The Great Game” between the Russian and British Empires, two British officers are imprisoned and executed in front of the Ark.
Destruction and modern era
- 1920 CE: The Ark is bombed by the Red Army under the command of Mikhail Frunze during the Russian Civil War, leaving a large part of the citadel in ruins.
- 1920s CE: The Ark ceases to be a functional fortress and becomes a museum and archive for the new Soviet government.
- 1993 CE: The Historic Centre of Bukhara, including the Ark, is designated a UNESCO World Heritage site.
- 2000s CE onwards: Restoration efforts continue on the Ark. Today, it stands as a symbol of Bukhara’s history and houses several museums.