’25 Oct Bukhara and Samarkand

The above picture will get repeated later in the day representing an unexpected delight.

The driver from Nukus and Khiva picked me up early in the morning and we drove one hour to the Urgench airport, back where I started this phase of the journey, for a one hour flight to Bukhara. By car or by train it would take seven hours through the empty desert so the flight was a nice option.

I talked before about the omnipresent white Chevy sedans in Nukus and Khiva. In Urgench and the surrounding area we find another model, a white Chevy micro-van.

The driver was anxious that I take a picture of this monument. I’m waiting now for google to tell me who he is. I cannot-should not-won’t tell you how frustrating the internet has been in Bukhara. I’m three days behind with pictures and taking all of today, my fourth day in Bukhara off, having deep breaths and waiting for the internet to respond.

And here we have the airport. I showed an arrival picture on the first day. We’ve taken steps on every flight so far, and I’ve checked my bag on these small planes. I haven’t felt unsafe for minute.

Guide Aziz Bakaev picked me up at the airport in very nice car that was not a white Chevy sedan. It was luxurious even, with super-comfy seats, excellent ventilation, and aces on the suspension. We took a tour of three important sites outside town after which he dropped me off at my hotel

The three sites were Bakhauddin Nakshband complex, Summer Palace, and Chor Bakr. Oh so many names and the guide spoke them all in one flat second and I never did get the knack of remembering one from another.

I’m starting to get a feel for the historic buildings though. We have mosques, minarets, madrasas, palaces and their attendant needs – harems, guest houses, etc., administration, mausoleums, and caravanserai.

Sufis stayed in buildings called khanakas, which looked to me like the madrasas, to live, study, and pray. Bukhara is a major hub for Sufism and is home to several sacred sites associated with Sufi saints. I’m sure I’ve seen at least some of them. I don’t know how many Sufis live in Bukhara but mostly it is a pilgrimage route to see the “Seven Sacred Sufis of Bukhara”. Let’s see if it comes up when I try to figure out what’s what in these pictures.

First stop, Bakhauddin Nakshband Memorial Complex

We had some excitement because the wife of the president of Uzbekistan was here with a large entourage. I couldn’t catch a picture but they were all women except for the guards and guides, and they were all dressed exquisitely.

Below you can see the white flag and horsehair hanging above a tomb. This symbol represents that a saint is buried here. The complex has been a place of pilgrimage for many generations for Bahouddin Muhammad ibn Burhoniddin Muhammad al-Bukhori, who lived from 1318 to 1389. He is the seventh of the Seven Saints of Bukhara and founder of the Naqshbandiya Sufi order.

This covers a well. Wells are important and often sacred.

I don’t remember what this is…

I got the camera turned around trying to take a picture of the ceiling. This is where the ladies pray so I tried to keep quiet but the ladies in there, about 6 of them, were calling me over and they all wanted a picture with me, I must have been as exotic to them as they were to me. Anyway, we smiled and laughed and it was fun.

And here we have some early sufis.

Next stop the Summer Palace aka Sitorai Mokhi-Khosa (uzbek: Sitorai Mohi xossa) also known as the “Palace Like the Stars and the Moon,” is a country residence of the Emir of Bukhara built in the late 19th to early 20th century, the last Emir used it for about six years. Currently, it houses a museum of decorative and applied arts.

There were a lot of decorative and applied arts for sure, silver work, this kind of embroidery, tons of gifts from dignitaries to the Emir, elegant clothing, etc.

Now comes the big excitement of the day – Chor-Bakr, a memorial complex built over the burial place of Abu-Bakr-Said who died in the year 360 of the Muslim Calendar (970–971 AD), and who was one of the four of Abu-Bakrs (Chor-Bakr) – descendants of Muhammad. The complex includes the necropolis of family tombs, and courtyards enclosed with walls.

BUT they were making a Movie! It’s about the last Emir of Bukhara so I have to watch out for it. It was pretty obvious something was going on since below is the entrance to the complex.

Another well.

Here comes the cast!

And here’s the set.

I was so taken with the people and their costumes that this is the only picture I took of the site.

Now I’m going to try to remember what I’ve eaten these last four days!

Yesterday’s guide picked me up around 10:30 and we raced through this itinerary. Fortunately I had the next day free so I could go back. This is looking like a theme here, go-go-go through the historic center and then go back to quietly get the feel. This is what the guide was going to show me of the Historic Old City. You can guess how much of it I’ll remember!

Holy Bukhara, homeland of Ibn Sino (Avicenna), loved city of all saints and worldwide known philosopher – cheery Khodja Nasriddin, lively, noisy and luxurious capital of Emirs, rich man of all nationals and patrons. Full day city tour in Bukhara: visit to Citadel Ark (IV c.) – city in a city, Bolo-Khauz Mosque (beginning of XX c.), Ismael Samani Mausoleum (the tomb of representatives of Samanids’ dynasty at the end of IX –beginning of X cc.),  Poyi Kalon Ensemble (Pedestal of the Great) – religious heart of sacred Bukhara that consists of Minaret Kalon (XII c.), Kalyan Mosque (XII c.) and Miri Arab Madrasah (XVI c.),  Ulugbek Madrasah (1417),  Abdulaziz Khan Madrasah, Magoki-Attori Mosque (XII-XVI cc.),  Kosh-Madrasah Ensemble that consists of Madari-Abdullakhan Madrasah, Lyabi-Khauz Ensemble (XIV-XVII cc.), Nodir Divanbeghi Madrasah, (Abdullakhan’s mother) and Abdullakhan Madrasah.

From my hotel it’s a 2 minute walk to the edge of the historic center. From unesco.org:

“The historic center of Bukhara, which is situated on the Silk Route, is more than 2,000 years old. It is the most complete example of a medieval city in Central Asia, with an urban fabric that has remained largely intact. Monuments of particular interest include the famous tomb of Ismail Samani, a masterpiece of 10th-century Muslim architecture, and a large number of 17th-century madrasas.”

The rug seller here kept pointing, look, look, and then I found it. Everyone likes to find some nature in the city. The hanging up in the ceiling is part of the Biennial contemporary art event which I will talk about at length tomorrow.

The Magoki-Attori Mosque is one of the oldest surviving architectural monuments in Bukhara. The guide told an entertaining story about how the local people buried the mosque in sand to save it from Genghis Khan’s destructive rampage, but I couldn’t find any confirming story online.

In the foreground are the remains of an original caravanserai, the place where the silk road caravans would rest, eat, and share news before moving on. Behind the remains is a later version that remained active through the years of caravans passing through Bukahara.

A Hammam, oh goodie, but…

…but women’s hours are 8-9pm, that’s it, and not for me.

Outside the walls of the giant, ancient fortress called the Ark of Bukhara.

The Ark of Bukhara, initially built and occupied around the 5th century AD. I was running out of gas looking up at those steps and declined the opportunity to visit the fortress wall.

We decided to head out for lunch and on the way we passed these guys. I slowed way down to admire what they were eating and they instantly passed me a spoon! YUM!

This was our version of the same dish, plov, which I like to eat with the tomato and cucumber salad. This one was ok but the surprise one above, from someone else’s plate was better. I’ve had plov in every city now and will continue to try it I’m sure. It’s the national dish of Uzbekistan and every guide’s wife makes the best, and if he doesn’t have a wife it’s his mother who makes the best.

We took this cart back to the main complex and I collapsed in my room for the rest of the night.

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About the Ark Fortress. Don’t Look If You Hate AI!

The Ark of Bukhara’s timeline spans over 1,500 years, from its ancient origins as a city-within-a-city to its destruction by the Red Army in 1920. The citadel served as the residence for Bukharan rulers and was repeatedly rebuilt after invasions and conquests. 

Early history

• 4th–3rd century BCE: Archeological evidence suggests that the earliest foundations for a fortress were laid on the same site during this period.
• 5th–6th century CE: The Ark was formally established as a citadel and is mentioned in historical sources as the residence of the Bukharan ruler, the Bukhar Khudat Bidun.
• 713 CE: The Arabs conquer Bukhara and convert a Zoroastrian temple within the Ark into the city’s first mosque.
• 10th century CE: During the Samanid period, the area outside the Ark’s western gate is developed into Registan Square, the grandest public space in the Islamic world at the time.
• 1220 CE: The Mongol army under Genghis Khan captures Bukhara. The inhabitants who take refuge in the Ark are killed, and the citadel is looted and destroyed. 

Dynastic seat of power

• 16th century CE: The Ark begins to take its present form under the Shaybanid Uzbek dynasty. Over the next three centuries, new buildings are constructed within its walls.
• 1742 CE: Nadir Shah of Persia constructs an impressive new entranceway on the western side of the Ark.
• 1753 CE: The Manghit dynasty establishes its rule. The Ark continues as the center of power and becomes the seat of the Emirate of Bukhara.
• 19th century CE: The Ark gains a notorious reputation for its dungeon, the Zindan, where political prisoners and foreign visitors are held in horrific conditions.
• 1860s CE: As part of “The Great Game” between the Russian and British Empires, two British officers are imprisoned and executed in front of the Ark. 

Destruction and modern era

• 1920 CE: The Ark is bombed by the Red Army under the command of Mikhail Frunze during the Russian Civil War, leaving a large part of the citadel in ruins.
• 1920s CE: The Ark ceases to be a functional fortress and becomes a museum and archive for the new Soviet government.
• 1993 CE: The Historic Centre of Bukhara, including the Ark, is designated a UNESCO World Heritage site.
• 2000s CE onwards: Restoration efforts continue on the Ark. Today, it stands as a symbol of Bukhara’s history and houses several museums.

It’s psst psst psst here kitty kitty meowww meowww all over town.

From the Biennial website: “Bukhara Biennial is a transformative and evolving platform for contemporary art and culture launching in September 2025 in the city of Bukhara, a UNESCO Creative City of Craft & Folk Art.” If you’re interested you can read about it and if not-so-much, no problem. I had no idea it was going to be here!

The theme is Recipes for Broken Hearts departing from a local legend where “the father of modern medicine Ibn Sina invented the recipe of the staple Uzbek dish, plov, to cure a prince’s sickness caused by an impossible love for the daughter of a craftsman.”

There were plenty of people around, I guess I just waited for a clear shot. Those silver floaties are part of an art project.

Pots, bowls, and cups on the outside, plates and platters on the inside.

An imagined prayer space made from palm scrap.

The Bukhara Museum of Fine Art joined the theme.

I thought it was interesting how they built these display boxes, to avoid hammering into the old walls.

There are shops and displays in each of those alcoves.

Below are drapes celebrating the historic canal that bisects the old city fed by the Zeravshan River and largely responsible for Bukhara’s prosperity. The Zeravshan River used to be a major tributary of the Amu Darya.

In a related note, remember back at the beginning of my trip when I went to the isolated and desolate Nukus area. Most people go there to visit the Aral Sea, once the 3rd or 4th largest inland lake, now shrunk to almost nothing and virtually dead. I chose not to go there because you must travel many hours on rutted, rocky, unpaved roads. Here’s what google’s AI has to say: “The Amu Darya River used to flow into the Aral Sea, but now little to none of its water reaches the sea due to massive diversion for irrigation projects, particularly those for cotton cultivation during the Soviet era. This diversion has led to the severe shrinking of the Aral Sea. The river’s historical path was also altered, but the primary cause of its current “dead” state near the Aral Sea is water diversion for agriculture.”

All the items on this menu are “Brutal”.

And this is the Simurgh on the portal of Nadir Divan-Beghi madrasah, part of Lab-i Hauz complex.

Surrounding the historic center are these side streets of hotels, all pretty small, maybe originally homes.

I have been eating a modest breakfast at the hotels and one more meal around 3-4. By this day I was longing to feel full, so I got this pizza and I ate it. Not that it was good, but I was happy.

This is what’s left of the Jewish Quarter in Bukhara. There are only a couple hundred Jewish people left from what was once 20,000-30,000 and they don’t have a rabbi but a layman can do services. There is a small museum and a residence available for a tour that takes about 20 minutes, which I did do.

A room from a house once used as both a synagogue and a mosque.

The cellar that led to the museum.

The man doing the tour was a Muslim and anxious to present an Uzbekistan that was always welcoming and tolerant of all people and all religions.

This guy is the legendary folk hero Khoja Nasreddin Efendi (1208–1285). You can click the link and also read more on wikipedia of course. He “is a character commonly found in the folklores of the Muslim world, and a hero of humorous short stories and satirical anecdotes.” We are reading his stories in my zoom group!

The internet in my hotel has been so bad, it shows up for two minutes and then disconnects for ten. What an agonizing drag. So I went to this restaurant below where the connection was better, slow but still, there, so I was grateful.

I settled myself at the restaurant with the internet for most of the 10th and traveled for most of the 11th. The transfers all went smoothly and the train ride was totally good.

To remember what I’ve been eating, every morning is a hotel breakfast and except for the first one in Nukus which was delightful, they’ve all been perfectly ok. The baked goods and the meats are not to my taste but the fruit is wonderful, there’s always tomatoes and cucumbers, sliced cheese, some kind of egg dish, usually a cooked vegetable, it perfectly ok.

For that second meal:

• Oct 3   Nukus arrival at the Turkish place
• Oct 4   Nukus best breakfast, fish platter, tomato salad, bread on the way to Khiva, arrival in Khiva beet salad
• Oct 5   Khiva feast w/Tolqin kabobs, dumplings, Khiva quesadillas
• Oct 6   Khiva quiet plov and tomato salad
• Oct 7   Bukhara Uyghur lagman
• Oct 8   Bukhara plov, tomato salad, fatty lamb w/Aziz
• Oct 9   Bukhara pizza and tomato salad
• Oct 10 Bukhara internet place dinner chalop=sour milk soup, fruit salad, good fried potatoes
• Oct 11 Samarkand afternoon at the internet place then the train
• Oct 12 Samarkand oily plov and tomato salad w/Bek (not Denis)
• Oct 13 Samarkand chicken place (“kfc”), odd milk and cookies (that’s today, the 13th so I’m behind with pictures only one big day)
• Oct 14 Samarkand delicious delivery borscht, Greek salad, chicken kabob
• Oct 15 Tashkent chicken burger
• Oct 16 Tashkent chicken burger
• Oct 17 Tashkent Georgian food w/Dinara
• Oct 18 Namangan strong plov and homemade tomato salad
• Oct 19 Kokand
• Oct 20 Kokand
• Oct 21 Fergana dumpling soup and beef stew
• Oct 22 Fergana pizza and salad

So many of these buildings and stories and rulers, destruction and rebuilding, and more, all feel similar as I move through the Silk Road cities and this is only from my own ignorance. Now I’ve been working on Samarkand, choosing pictures and trying to wrap my mind around it all since I’ve been seeing so many things out of chronological order. I can’t keep track!

What to do? Wellll, I asked AI! If you hate AI (oh penny penny please don’t do AI, please, don’t do it!), if you hate AI just go on to the breathtaking Samarkand that comes next. Do Not rag on me about AI. But I don’t think you’ll be sorry if you read it. And if you find a mistake all the better, I can fix it!

The prompt: “Write a short timeline of the history of Uzbekistan from the beginning until now. Focus on the rulers of the time and their architectural accomplishments. Also include important events in the history of the Silk Road.”

Uzbekistan’s history is a rich tapestry of powerful empires, intellectual golden ages, and strategic trade along the Silk Road. The region has been influenced by a succession of rulers, from Persian kings and Hellenistic conquerors to Turkic khans and Mongol warriors.

Ancient kingdoms and the Silk Road

• 6th century BCE: Cyrus the Great of Persia conquers the region, incorporating ancient states like Sogdiana, Bactria, and Khorezm into the Achaemenid Empire. Cities like Samarkand and Khiva emerge as important urban centers.
• 4th century BCE: Alexander the Great conquers the Persian Empire, bringing the region under Hellenistic influence. Trade routes begin to develop, forming the earliest branches of what would become the Silk Road.
• 1st century BCE: The Silk Road becomes an important overland trade route connecting China with the Middle East and Rome. Caravans carry valuable goods, including silk, porcelain, paper, spices, wool, and precious gems, passing through Uzbek cities like Samarkand, Bukhara, and Khiva.

Arab conquest and the Islamic Golden Age

• 8th century CE: The Arabs conquer Transoxiana (the region between the Amu Darya and Syr Darya rivers), introducing Islam to Central Asia.
• 9th–10th centuries CE: The Persian Samanid dynasty rises to power. Under their rule, Bukhara becomes a major center of Islamic culture.
  • Architecture: The Samanid Mausoleum in Bukhara (c. 900) is a brilliant example of early Islamic architecture.
• 10th century CE: Turkic tribes form the Karakhanid Khanate.
  • Architecture: The Kalyan Minaret in Bukhara is erected in the 11th century, surviving Genghis Khan’s later invasion.

Mongol invasion and the Timurid Renaissance

• 13th century CE: Genghis Khan and the Mongol Empire conquer and devastate the region, destroying many cities, including the ancient city of Ahsiket. The area later becomes part of the Chagatai Khanate.
• 14th century CE: The Turco-Mongol conqueror Amir Timur (Tamerlane) establishes a vast empire with its capital in Samarkand. He revives and fortifies the Silk Road routes through his domain.
  • Architecture: Timur transforms Samarkand into a magnificent capital with grand architectural projects, including palaces, mosques, and mausoleums. Notable structures from this period include the Shah-i-Zinda necropolis and the Gur-i Amir mausoleum.
• 15th century CE: Timur’s grandson, Ulugh Beg, rules Samarkand. A renowned astronomer and mathematician, he turns the city into a center of science and learning.
  • Architecture: Ulugh Beg’s contributions include the Ulugh Beg Madrasah in Samarkand and his astronomical observatory.

The Uzbek Khanates and decline of the Silk Road

• 16th century CE: The Shaybanids, a nomadic Uzbek dynasty, conquer the Timurid territories and establish the Khanate of Bukhara.
  • Architecture: The Shaybanids, particularly Abdullah Khan II, continue architectural patronage. New madrasahs are built, including the Sher-Dor and Tilya-Kori madrasahs in Samarkand.
• 18th century CE: In-fighting leads to the decline of the khanates of Khiva, Kokand, and Bukhara. This fragmentation, combined with the rise of new European sea-based trade routes, causes the Silk Road to lose its prominence.

Russian conquest and the Soviet era

• 19th century CE: The Russian Empire expands into Central Asia. Russian forces annex the Kokand Khanate and make the Bukhara Emirate and Khiva Khanate protectorates. The Trans-Caspian Railway, completed in 1888, bypasses ancient Silk Road routes.
• Early 20th century: The Bolshevik Revolution leads to Soviet rule. In 1924, the Uzbek Soviet Socialist Republic is formed. Islamic schools and institutions are suppressed, and the economy is reorganized around cotton production.
• 1966: A devastating earthquake destroys much of Tashkent, which is later rebuilt in the Soviet style.

Independence and the modern era

• 1991: Following the collapse of the Soviet Union, Uzbekistan declares independence and Islam Karimov becomes the country’s first president.
• 21st century: Uzbekistan focuses on national development and opening up to the world. The country, particularly its ancient Silk Road cities, becomes a destination for cultural heritage tourism, and efforts are made to revive its historical importance.

Above, Registan Square, the heartbeat of Samarkand, three madrassas built at different times, rebuilt at different times, all quite magnificent. “Registan Square, a UNESCO World Heritage site in Samarkand, Uzbekistan, has evolved over centuries from a central marketplace and public forum into a magnificent architectural ensemble. The square is framed by three grand madrasahs: the Ulugbek, Sher-Dor, and Tilla-Kori.”

Bek was an excellent guide and a delight but he didn’t want his picture taken and so that’s that, no picture. We were out for a long day and hit all the highlights. Here’s the preliminary itinerary:

Mausoleum Guri Emir – Tamerlane’s Tomb (XIV-XV), Registan Square – Madrassah Ulug Bek (XV), Madrassah Shir-Dor (XVII), Madrassah Tillya-Kori (XVII), Bibi Khanum Mosque (XIV-XV). Architectural Complex Shakh-i-Zinda (dated XI-XV century) and Ulug Bek Observatory (XV), the Mausoleum of prophet Daniel. Paper factory. Samarkand Touristic Center

Being surrounded by all these breathtaking buildings for days and days now, and being surrounded by a huge and ancient history I knew nothing about, I realize it’s going to take more focus than I have now to put it all together. I looked up some timelines, found it all incomprehensible, asked AI, and posted it in the entry before this one.

But what’s what? This is the first time I’ve seen these ribbed domes. Aren’t they marvelous. And is this the mausoleum or a madrasah? I’m going to tell the stories I remember and identify the ones I can find online.

This is in the Registan Square, part of the first picture. Notice the faces near the top.

This is all symbolic, the leopard (not a tiger, not a lion) being a legendary figure in the mythology of Samarkand. I said to Bek I thought faces were not allowed, to which he replied, that is true, and because of this the religious leaders would not allow this building to be used as a mosque. The faces are there because they guy who paid for this building wanted them.

The sun image is also important and appears in many mosaics.

The door behind those hanging scarves leads to a ‘secret staircase’ which leads to a tea shop with handcrafts for sale. When offered a secret staircase I had to say Yes Please! See those steps? I’m thinking there were at least 50 of them.

More.

The reason the doorways are low is because everyone should bow, a gesture of humility and respect, before entering.

What was once a caravanserai.

The ceilings of the golden mosque.

More suns.

I’m a sucker for the brides.

One quarter of the market, there are three more just like it.

I had myself a little fresh-pressed pomegranate juice. As in so many places where pomegranates grow, the symbolism is everywhere.

The great astronomer Ulugh Bek, grandson of Timur and the founder of the Ulugh Beg Observatory in 1420, destroyed in 1449, and rediscovered in 1908, it was a true wonder of its time.

This is an example from one place and I think all the sites have gone through destruction and rebuilding over the millennia.

Ah, this is how they don’t smudge.

Maybe the tallest.

A section left unrestored.

Notice in the domes the open pocket-like sections on either side. What they do is create an echo so that someone speaking beneath the dome can be heard for a greater distance.

Lunch, can you guess, plov, of course. It’s #4 of 4 but I’d still eat it again.

This is my hotel, called the Shohjahon Palace Hotel and Spa. And for me, a palace it is! My room is bigger than all my other rooms combined. My room is bigger than my House. The bathroom was perfect for doing laundry, the desk is in a big living room with a couch even. It’s lovely to have this treat in the middle of the trip.

Above, a sweet treat from the train station, one of the tastiest bites on the trip so far.

The hotel here in Samarkand, the Shohjahon Palace Hotel & Spa, was luxurious but not in the best location in that it was at least 20 minutes walk to the Registan Square, probably 30 minutes for me, and it was the closest of the sites around Samarkand, and I was in need of a break anyway, and the Shohjahon Palace Hotel & Spa seemed just the place to have that break.

They had a comfortable patio for taking the breeze…

…and yummy on the spa.

Every single person in every single hotel has been helpful and kind as has every person in every restaurant, tour, standing around the sites, everyone. It’s been remarkable. It’s like my suitcase has an alarm on it or something (and my expression is no doubt discouraged) because whenever I’m approaching stairs someone is there to reach out for the carry.

Percentage-wise the most tourists seem to be from Russia. For one thing, everyone in tourism speaks Russian and for another, according to a couple guides, those who would be relaxing in Ukraine have had to find somewhere else to go.

So I had leisurely breakfasts, did up pictures, watched some tv, enjoyed the spa and another massage, and napped off and on, which was a joy.

Here’s a picture of that sour milk soup I mentioned before.

I took the train from Samarkand to Tashkent on the 15th arriving after dark to the Lette City Hotel, an even more high-end group/expense account hotel than in Samarkand. The morning coffee at the Lette has been perfect and they even have cold fresh milk for cereal.

You can’t catch a decent shot from the aisle seat.

When to visit Uzbekistan. It’s been hotter than predicted!