Above, Registan Square, the heartbeat of Samarkand, three madrassas built at different times, rebuilt at different times, all quite magnificent. “Registan Square, a UNESCO World Heritage site in Samarkand, Uzbekistan, has evolved over centuries from a central marketplace and public forum into a magnificent architectural ensemble. The square is framed by three grand madrasahs: the Ulugbek, Sher-Dor, and Tilla-Kori.”
Bek was an excellent guide and a delight but he didn’t want his picture taken and so that’s that, no picture. We were out for a long day and hit all the highlights. Here’s the preliminary itinerary:
Mausoleum Guri Emir – Tamerlane’s Tomb (XIV-XV), Registan Square – Madrassah Ulug Bek (XV), Madrassah Shir-Dor (XVII), Madrassah Tillya-Kori (XVII), Bibi Khanum Mosque (XIV-XV). Architectural Complex Shakh-i-Zinda (dated XI-XV century) and Ulug Bek Observatory (XV), the Mausoleum of prophet Daniel. Paper factory. Samarkand Touristic Center
Being surrounded by all these breathtaking buildings for days and days now, and being surrounded by a huge and ancient history I knew nothing about, I realize it’s going to take more focus than I have now to put it all together. I looked up some timelines, found it all incomprehensible, asked AI, and posted it in the entry before this one.
But what’s what? This is the first time I’ve seen these ribbed domes. Aren’t they marvelous. And is this the mausoleum or a madrasah? I’m going to tell the stories I remember and identify the ones I can find online.
This is in the Registan Square, part of the first picture. Notice the faces near the top.
This is all symbolic, the leopard (not a tiger, not a lion) being a legendary figure in the mythology of Samarkand. I said to Bek I thought faces were not allowed, to which he replied, that is true, and because of this the religious leaders would not allow this building to be used as a mosque. The faces are there because they guy who paid for this building wanted them.
The sun image is also important and appears in many mosaics.
The door behind those hanging scarves leads to a ‘secret staircase’ which leads to a tea shop with handcrafts for sale. When offered a secret staircase I had to say Yes Please! See those steps? I’m thinking there were at least 50 of them.
More.
The reason the doorways are low is because everyone should bow, a gesture of humility and respect, before entering.
What was once a caravanserai.
The ceilings of the golden mosque.
More suns.
I’m a sucker for the brides.
One quarter of the market, there are three more just like it.
I had myself a little fresh-pressed pomegranate juice. As in so many places where pomegranates grow, the symbolism is everywhere.
The great astronomer Ulugh Bek, grandson of Timur and the founder of the Ulugh Beg Observatory in 1420, destroyed in 1449, and rediscovered in 1908, it was a true wonder of its time.
This is an example from one place and I think all the sites have gone through destruction and rebuilding over the millennia.
Ah, this is how they don’t smudge.
Maybe the tallest.
A section left unrestored.
Notice in the domes the open pocket-like sections on either side. What they do is create an echo so that someone speaking beneath the dome can be heard for a greater distance.
Lunch, can you guess, plov, of course. It’s #4 of 4 but I’d still eat it again.
This is my hotel, called the Shohjahon Palace Hotel and Spa. And for me, a palace it is! My room is bigger than all my other rooms combined. My room is bigger than my House. The bathroom was perfect for doing laundry, the desk is in a big living room with a couch even. It’s lovely to have this treat in the middle of the trip.
