We moved out of our condo today and made our way over to the hotel where we would meet the Intrepid Armenia and Georgia tour. Helpfully, our rooms were ready early so we could get settled and then head out for lunch. Hilda wanted borscht so she asked at a small shop where the woman pointed down the street to this place, the epitome of down-home local. And Hilda got borscht directly from the kitchen above.
Remember strawberries are everywhere including here in front of the restaurant, a guy selling strawberries out of his trunk.
I can’t remember if we walked or called yandex for a ride to our one activity of the day, a visit to the Sergey Parajanov (1924-1990) Museum. I reeeally liked it. He’s most well known as a film director but this museum was about his life and the collages he made during a time when, in Soviet times, he was forbidden from making films. You can check out this link if you want to see more of the Parajanov Museum. (gurrr The music on the site is annoying!)
This building offers an opportunity to talk about the material called tuff and pronounced toof. It’s made from volcanic ash, unlike lava made from volcanic flow, and comes in all those lovely colors. You might remember that all the buildings in Republic Square are made of these blocks.
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Tour Day 1: “Barheev! Welcome to Armenia. This evening, there will be an important welcome meeting at 6 pm, where you’ll meet your group leader and fellow travellers. After the meeting, why not ask your leader where you can find some traditional Armenian food, like khoravat (Armenian barbecue) or basturma (cured beef).”
Introducing the tour group!
We are two Brits, two Aussies, one Kiwi, one Canuck, and we three. The tour company originates in Australia. The guide is Russian(!) because, she said, the tour company decided going to both Armenia and Georgia, Russian is the most common language. She is lovely, everyone is lovely actually. So many photos to follow in days to come.
After the get-together the group was going to go eat at a place we had already been to so we decided to try a new place and it was quite YUM too. We have definitely been enjoying the food. The restaurant picture is from the internet and the scraps of food is what was left when I thought to take a picture.
Tour Day 2: “Today, join a local guide for an insightful city tour of Yerevan. Armenia’s vibrant capital has a great mix of ancient culture and tradition with a contemporary feel. Begin at Republic Square, and then head to the Cafesjian Center – an open-air museum of modern art. Continue on to Freedom Square – a lively city hub with its ornate Opera House sitting at the centre.
“You’ll have lunch at a traditional museum-café built by Lusik Aguletsi – a lover of Armenian antiques and all things local and handmade. Here you’ll have the chance to try some local favourites, like tomatoes with goats cheese and gata (Armenian coffee cake). Take a look around to see exhibits of national costumes, carpets and rugs and other traditional Armenian wares, then enjoy an afternoon at leisure. You may like to head out for a local brandy tasting – ask your leader for recommendations.”
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Above the local guide on the left and our tour guide, Ksenia, on the right.
According to Wikipedia 98.1% of the population of Armenia is ethnically Armenian and 97% of them are members of the Armenian Apostolic Church. This is something to keep in mind, the homogeneity being like so few places these days.
This church is relatively new, Saint Gregory The Illuminator Cathedral.
You can hardly see the small red cups in the hanging lights above, but these guys took them out to refill and relight them.
On the grounds of the church this is a basalt stone statue of Andranik Ozmanyan, also known as Andranik Pasha.
A theater built “in Soviet times” now used as a market I think? Every guide uses this expression constantly..”in Soviet times”…
At the foot of Cascade Park, this is Alexander Tamanian (1878-1936), acknowledged by all to be the architect of modern Yerevan. The Wikipedia article is surprisingly concise so have a look if you’re interested.
“Lusik Aguletsi, a well-known artist, cultural figure, and collector, along with her husband, sculptor Yuri Samvelyan, transformed their family home into a unique cultural hub where everyone feels at home.” So many things.
Tour Day 3: “After breakfast, meet a local guide for a tour of the Kond neighbourhood, one of the oldest quarters of Yerevan. Kond is often overlooked by tourists, but offers up a wealth of history and character. Explore the labyrinth of narrow alleys as your local guide shares the stories of the neighbourhood. Lunch today is extra special – be welcomed into the home of a local family, living in a 300-year-old house, making it one of the oldest in Yerevan. As you dine with the family you’ll hear how they’ve lived in Kond for three generations, and try some of Armenia’s famous lavash bread.
“After lunch, check out a handmade rug factory – the designs are beautifully intricate. The rest of the day is free for your own discoveries. You may like to pay a visit to the Khor Virap and Zvartnots religious sites.”
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We took an early morning quick buzz through the market across the street from the hotel. That’s our hotel below center, and I took the picture from the pedestrian bridge crossing the big street.
Samples samples every vendor reaches out to offer samples, oh yeah.
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We had a very interesting visit to the Megerian rug-making facility. Rugs, it turns out, are made by knotting and carpets are made by weaving. The size is not part of the equation, only the technique of making the rug or carpet.
They had 20 looms here, and all the workers are making rugs.
Ksenia on the left and the local guide for the rug facility on the right.
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We are now entering the Kond district of Tbilisi where the oldest buildings are still in use. Below, a funeral for a prominent citizen.
Several murals are here on this street designed, according to the guide, to welcome tourists to the area. Notice on the right, that’s the most important image in Armenia, the two peaks of Mt Ararat. We’ve been chasing that view for days. That’s the local guide below, Anahit, who spoke Russian and Ksenia translated which made the tour longer than necessary, but I enjoyed it anyway especially because I did, admittedly, wander off a little.
I wandered away briefly for a different angle and ran into these guys who wanted to know where I was from and if I liked Armenia and etc so after our little chat I asked for this photo and I like it.
Here kitty kitty. All the street cats seem so well-fed and friendly and more surprisingly the same is true of the dogs, they are well-fed and friendly too.
What a splendid treat. So much delicious food and you know I have to try everything. Even my 13,000 step average is not going to make a dent…
This is Anahit’s husband Aram who sang a patriotic song about missing the homeland.
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Hilda found this driver to take us to two UNESCO sites in the area that I was particularly interested to see.
This is Etchmiadzin Cathedral, also called the Mother See, the headquarters of the Armenian Apostolic Church. It isn’t possible to see the inside because of ongoing renovations but I wanted to feel for it anyway. There are many buildings in the complex. “The cathedral, part of the monastery of the same name, is surrounded by walls which enclose a series of structures. They include the palace of the Catholicos, a seminary, museum, refectory, synod house, library, printing house, monks’ cells, and other auxiliary buildings.”
The grounds were quite lovely too.
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We continued on to Zvartnots Cathedral. Both these sites, Etchmiadzin and Zvartnots have centuries long histories with both being reconstructed a number of times. The inset picture is from the internet because I didn’t get this view, Mt Ararat in the background.
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On the way back to Yerevan finally we could see the whole shape of Ararat, almost…
Sunset from my hotel room. This is our last night in Yerevan. Tomorrow we head out for a long drive to Dilijan stopping along the way for temples and monasteries all day long.
Tour Day 4: “This morning, head to the Geghard Monastery, a magnificent and unique structure partially carved out of rock. Interestingly, Armenia was the first to adopt Christianity as a state religion, and these medieval churches and monasteries have stood the test of time to show the country’s deep religious history. Today, you will also visit the Hellenistic Garni Temple and the medieval Sevanavank Monastery, set on the banks of the pristine Lake Sevan.
“From here, travel to Fioletovo, a village that’s home to the Molokan religious sect. Join a Molokan family for lunch to learn about their beliefs and traditions and taste their Russian-influenced cuisine, including borscht, pirozhki (pie) and tea from a samovar.
“Then, travel to the picturesque town of Dilijan, where you will be spending the night. On arrival, join your leader for an orientation walk to take in the town’s charming buildings and traditional craft workshops. Your accommodation tonight is a restored 19th century building filled with antique furniture and original architecture.”
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Heading to our last night in Armenia, it’s temples and monasteries all day long. First stop – Garni Temple, “the only standing Greco-Roman colonaded building in Armenia.”
Waiting our turn for a shot getting anxious because those two kept the scene to themselves for a very long time. And a cat!
On the right is the ceiling under the colonnade.
A view of the surrounding landscape.
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Geghard Monastery, another UNESCO World Heritage Site, “while the main chapel was built in 1215, the monastery complex was founded in the 4th century by Gregory the Illuminator at the site of a sacredspring inside a cave.”
In Armenia we didn’t have to wear headscarves in the churches unlike in Georgia where headscarves were provided.
A chapel carved into the rock.
“Some of the churches within the monastery complex are entirely dug out of the cliff rocks, others are little more than caves, while others are elaborate structures, with both architecturally complex walled sections and rooms deep inside the cliff.” And more of those very cool water fountains.
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Here is Sevanavank Monastery located on a peninsula on the banks of Lake Sevan.
Wikipedia: “According to an inscription in one of the churches, the monastery of Sevanavank was founded in 874 by Princess Mariam, the daughter of Ashot (who became a king a decade later). At the time, Armenia was still struggling to free itself from Arab rule.”
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Time for a late lunch at the home of a Molokan family in the community of Fioletovo.
Luba, Rhonda, Rhonda, me, Merlyn, Judy, John, Anthea, Hilda, Ray
The local guide, Anna, on the left and our hosts, mother Luba and daughter Eliana, on the right. (Judi’s picture.)
The hosts had converted the first log building into a museum and told us the story of their family.
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Hotel pictures from The Internet. We’re not here in fall!
Our hotel is on the right and the restaurant is on the left. It was lovely and everyone reported sleeping so well because I think of the cold air and heavy blankets.
A 50th Anniversary of Soviet Armenia monument. You might remember there was another one back in Yerevan too.
Our farewell Armenia dinner of wine and snacks. YUM. We didn’t get to spend any real time in Dilijan because we arrived at nearly dark and left at nearly dawn to make the long run into Georgia.
Tour Day 5: “Say goodbye to Armenia this morning as you board a public bus to Tbilisi, the capital city of Georgia. On arrival, you’ll have time for your own discoveries of this vibrant city. You may like to wander the old districts, which are structured like terraces, take a walk along the river, visit the Tbilisi Concert Hall and Public Service Hall, or grab a great coffee and check out the artist pop ups at Fabrika.”
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That’s right…we rode a public bus from Dilijan across the Armenia-Georgia border and on to Tbilisi. Here we are starting to gather after the trek up the hill with our baggage to load into said public bus.
The border crossing went smoothly and although the bus was more crowded than our previous bus, all in all it wasn’t bad. (Hilda’s picture)
A thing along most roads we traveled in both Armenia and Georgia.
And trucks, oh my goodness. There’s an interesting and controversial story about the Chinese building a massive tunnel to alleviate some of the congestion on the Georgia Military Highway. The trucks tear up the roads so terribly that all the other vehicles are paying the price.
The tour hotel was up the hill past that church and statue. The river, the Kura, I heard was dirty from the muddy flow and that the river rides were not worth it, but I might throw advice to the wind and do it anyway.
The Tree of Life installed in 2016. One website said the locals call it The Tree of Wishes because you can leave coins in the base of the tree. You’ll see more of the train car later.
Those domes are Georgian spas – sulfur soaks, hammam style scrubs, and even massage. Oh you know it, that’s for ME!
The Bridge of Peace, opened in 2010, designed by the Italian architect Michele De Lucchi, transported from Italy in 200 trucks, “a message in Morse code “that renders the periodic table of elements goes across two parapets every hour. The lights designer Martinaud considers this communication celebration of “life and peace between people”.”
I’m liking the look of Tbilisi.
Merlyn, Hilda, and I came out for a very light dinner having eaten and eaten until we thought it was impossible to eat again. But no. It was possible.
A balloon ride rising like the moon above a bar and snack place on the river.
I’m going to be doing this! That’s the Bridge of Peace in the lower left.
Tour Day 6: “Stock up on brekky and embark on a sightseeing tour of Tbilisi with a local guide. Tbilisi is a city of colour, of old and new, and your tour this morning will give you a glance at its history from the early centuries AD to now, through its sites and diverse architecture. You’ll also pass by the renowned 19th century houses of multicoloured balconies, synonymous with the Tbilisian skyline.
“Take a panoramic cable car ride from Rike Park up to the Narikala Fortress, then wander down to the sulfur baths, which are set on the thermal springs that give the Georgian capital its name. After your guided tour, have a free afternoon to relax, perhaps with a spa treatment!”
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OK, a city walking tour, Let’s Go! Here’s the local guide.
I’m going to put these in the order we walked in hopes of figuring out what’s what.
On the way down the hill from our KMM Hotel, passed by every day to get anywhere, the Virgin Mary Assumption Church of Metekhi.
Continuing down the hill, I like the look of these buildings.
Into Old Town Central.
The tamada, or toastmaster, an important role in Georgian social life.
This Sioni Cathedral, one of those churches that has been refurbished a number of times. (First built in the 6th–7th century, renovated in the 13th century, and again in the 17th–18th century. The belfry was added in 1812.)
Strolling down the pedestrianized Shardeni Street, packed with restaurants and shops.
This is the The Anchiskhati Basilica of St Mary, the oldest surviving church in Tbilisi.
Cool, right.
Copied from gabriadze.com “In 2010 Rezo Gabriadze built a unique clock tower next to the marionette theatre in Tbilisi old town. Every hour an angel comes out to ring the bell with a small hammer. There is a small mechanical puppet theatre inside the tower and twice a day at noon and at 7pm you can see the show – “The Circle of Life”. Rezo decorated the tower with hundreds of tiles which he designed himself and it instantly became a major architectural attraction of Tbilisi.”
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The group took the cable car ride from Rike Park. These are views in every direction.
At the top end of the cable car, when you disembark, on the left is the Narikala Fortress (currently closed) and the St Nicholas’s Orthodox Church. We didn’t go that way. Turning to the right is the Mother of Georgia, also on the right in this picture. On the left is Mother Armenia. Notice the differences. They are both poised to protect the homeland at any cost but Mother Georgia also holds a cup, of wine according the guide, to welcome guests.
And on our way to lunch we passed through an underground tunnel overflowing with Things. Our guide has an expression she uses because we have among us some serious shoppers. She says ‘now is not time for shopping, free time is for shopping, now is time for getting there’. It’s funny.
I don’t remember the name of the restaurant. Too bad about that because the food was great and the lighting and the wallpaper were cool.
Ksenia usually ordered the food and we shared. It was great because everyone was happy with the arrangement. This is the Georgian specialty, Khinkali, available in most restaurants. Here they are in three slightly different shapes because each shape is different. We have cheese, mushroom, and meatball. This is my first chichi of the trip, a kind of grappa, made in many flavors. I like it.
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After lunch Merlyn and I caught the funicular for a ride up to the Natural Wine Festival Zero Compromise. Hilda wanted to do something else and didn’t join this time. There’s a whole amusement park up there but the wine festival was so gigantic we didn’t even think about looking around.
They fill these cinnamon and sugar delights with ice cream and various other treats. I better get one before I leave Georgia.
Notice the umbrellas on the right are the wine pavilions where they will pour all the wine you want to drink. On the left of the walkway are other things no one wants when there’s free wine to be had. The guy in the second picture was a real charmer. We stood around visiting for long while and learned a lot about his winery.
I have that toothpick in my mouth because I was using it to pick up the bits of bread, cheese, olive, dried fruit, etc that were also on offer in the wine booths.
Oh the intoxicating smell. We decided to have some food up here.
Here was a large table for sharing and this sweet family was so kind and generous. We had a great time.
And then we took the funicular down and walked the 20-30 minutes back.
Later that night, at the hotel I was hearing this crowd outside my window and noise that went on and on, so I got up. Oh Look! The demonstrators (I learned this later) were on their way to the metro stop. All the 10s of thousands were passing under my window! It went on for hours.
Interestingly not one family member or friend or even a friend of a friend asked me about the demonstrations even though so so many people know I’m in Tbilisi. What does this say about our connection to the world, I don’t know, probably nothing, being such a small sample…
Here’s a youtube from Radio Free Europe that has some good pictures.
Tour Day 7: “This morning, pay a visit to the ancient capital and religious centre of Mtskheta. Here you’ll be joined by a local guide to explore Mtskheta’s historical sites, including the sixth century Jvari Monastery 11th-century Svetitskhoveli Cathedral. Continue on to the town of Gori in the heart of Kartli region.
“With your local guide by your side, visit the ancient Uplistsikhe Cave Town – a rock-hewn dwelling where the Great Silk Road used to pass. Afterwards travel by Georgia’s most scenic road – the Military Highway to reach Stepantsminda, more commonly known to locals as Kazbegi. Enjoy the views of the Greater Caucasus range and get ready for some hiking tomorrow.”
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On the road again! Maybe we are at a stop waiting for the others?
Anthea, John, and the Rhondas
Lonely Planet again: “Between the 6th century BC and 1st century AD, Uplistsikhe developed into one of the chief political and religious centres of pre-Christian Kartli, with temples dedicated principally to the sun goddess. After the Arabs occupied Tbilisi in AD 645, Uplistsikhe became the residence of the Christian kings of Kartli and an important trade centre on a main caravan road from Asia to Europe.”
My shoes are holding up well (knock on wood!) and although I took every hand offered, I did make it to the top and back down without incident.
The local guide telling us about Uplistsikhe Cave Town. I’m writing this many days after our tour so I can say now Georgian local guides talk FAST. Every one of them and I have no idea why.
Inside the church. Faces lit by candlelight are irresistible.
Along the Mtkvari River.
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Next stop, the Stalin Museum in Gori, the town of his birth. I was worried about this place and sure enough I felt creeped out. Self-fullfilling prophecy? I don’t think so. Like who is it that is daily adorning this statue with large expensive bouquets?
Lonely Planet: “This impressively designed museum makes no serious attempt to present a balanced account of Stalin’s career or deeds. It remains, much as when it opened in 1957, a reverent homage to the Gori boy who became a key figure of 20th-century history…”
That inset picture was prominently displayed, huge, in an elaborately gilded frame.
They built a palace to protect his humble birth home.
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If you follow how the tour is described and how it turns out, you’ll see that the order gets changed often depending on the weather and other factors, traffic for example, that the guides take into account when moving from site to site. Our Ksenia has been doing a wonderful job.
This is Svetitskhoveli Cathedral, from the Georgian Travel Guide “the main patriarchal cathedral of the Georgian Orthodox Church, the Mother Cathedral of Georgia, the place of enthronement of the Georgian Catholicos, the burial site of many kings of Georgia.”
Oh look, there’s another one up there. I’ll bet we’re going to visit that one next…
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Yes, and it’s another good one. Actually, I’ve been loving that there are so many and we are seeing a good chunk of them. One after another, it builds up a real feeling for what they are like. Jvari Monestary, “Jvari is a rare case of an Early Medieval Georgian church that has survived to the present day almost unchanged.”
We’ve been seeing brides all day today. I see why too, the old monasteries are so scenic and historically meaningful.
Now the drive on to our accommodation at a ski resort town (Stepantsminda, commonly called Kazbegi, the Darchi Hotel) where it is, at the moment, snowing.
Tour Day 8: “After breakfast you’ll take a two-hour hike through the beautiful valleys and woodlands to the Gergeti Trinity Church. Depending on the weather, you may even catch a glimpse of one of the highest glaciers in the Caucasus – Mt Kazbegi. Back in town you’ll enjoy a cooking class with a local family, learning to make khinkali, a popular Georgian dumpling. Enjoy a night to relax and catch up with your travel friends with an included dinner.”
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Today was the day we were supposed to take a two-hour hike up up up in the mountains. You can’t begin to see the mountains, and it was raining and then it was snowing. I took the chance, declined the activity, and since at the time I was a week+ behind in pictures, I enjoyed several hours with my good friend photoshop.
We did have our cooking class followed by another splendid meal.
This was the first course of lunch. The meat dishes weren’t here yet. And then later there was an included dinner at the hotel. Lordy.
And then we went up to the acclaimed ‘best hotel in town’ for a delightful Happy Hour and then back to our hotel for dinner. Our guide arranged for our driver to take us and bring us back.
Tour Day 9: “Travel on to the Kakheti region, renowned for its wine-making and welcoming hospitality. Your drive today is quite scenic, so soak up all of the Georgian countryside and its myriad of greens, reds and browns.
“Arrive in the regional centre of Telavi, where you’ll take a visit to the historic Tsinandali – an old estate and vineyard-turned-museum welcoming guests to walk in the gardens and see the quaint house. Afterwards, it’s time to sample some of the local drops – visit a small private winery where our host will tell you all about the Georgian wine-making process and you’ll be able to sample their best wines.
“Tonight, you’ll stay nearby in a hotel run by another wine-making family. Enjoy a delicious traditional dinner at the hotel.”
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We left our accommodation, the Darchi Hotel in Kazbegi, in the rain and snow, heading back down to the green lands…
..of serious wine-making country.
We stopped here for a 20 minute pee break. I really liked it and barely made it to the purpose of our stop. Thank goodness for google lens getting the names of things without too much ordeal. This is Ananuri Fortress Complex.
That’s our John and Anthea making their way under the handsome trees.
In the oh-so-many churches and monasteries we’ve been visiting, most of the frescoes have been removed or faded out over the years so it’s always exciting to find them. Here you see the faces in the panel on the left are smudged out, commonly done by various Muslim invaders where showing faces is not allowed.
Merlyn’s picture – I missed getting over to this cool viewing opportunity.
Arriving at the town of Telavi for a visit to the historic Tsinandali wine estate.
The landscaping was really gorgeous. We all agreed… ooow, we could stay here! And btw there’s a Radisson hotel here too.
The way they do the brick and stone walls, exterior and interior, always attracts my attention.
One of the original buildings from the winery.
Playing around in the Radisson.
me, Ray, John, Merlyn, Judy, Anthea, Ksenia, Rhonda, Rhonda (you might have realized by now, we have two Rhondas. We call them The Rhondas, or R&R, or R2. Most frequently, from Ksenia, “where are The Rhondas?!”)
This place is the storeroom of the history of this winery plus gifts from other wineries for 100+ years. Our guide through the facility pointed out that none of these wines will ever be drunk. They’re labeled and catalogued though. During the tour we got again the story of Georgian wine (that they were the first to make wine, much earlier than those Armenians…who also have evidence that They were the first.) Both Armenia and Georgia point to their clay pots buried in ancient caves. There are pictures of the clay pots scattered around this story.
Our next stop, a pop and son operation and here is more about the clay pots some of them are so huge, taller even that the man who has to climb in to clean them.
He is showing what kind of wine you get out of the pot and at the very bottom is the chacha. Chacha is the Georgian version of grappa. Once I discovered chacha I started having one wherever it was offered, to see what it was like. Like grappa, some were better than others!
I am writing this 7 days behind and by now I know a little better how I feel about Georgian wine. For one, they are careful to tell you which wine is made in the traditional way, buried in clay pots, and wine made in the European way in vats. The clay pot wine is decidedly distinct, very different, and I think, an acquired taste. I remember acquiring a taste for retsina in Greece. After a week or two I was a fan. Am I a fan of clay pot wine? Not so much. The one kind that I might order is the semi-sweet red. It’s rich and wine-y and the odd taste seems to blend in with the other strong flavors. I like that one!
One of everyone’s highlights, our personal, at home, wine tasting. We got a white and a red and chacha. It was Very fun the best part being an introduction to Georgian toasted sunflower seed oil. They brought it to the table for the bread. I just kept pouring that oil on the bread until it was soaked through. Probably I should have just enjoyed the oil from a spoon. The cheese was nice soaked in oil too.
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Back at the hotel/winery this was the dining room, our table set up as it always was through the tour. Intrepid and Ksenia and our easy-going group made meal time a relaxing delight. So often it takes So Long to get through a group meal but preparations organized ahead and willingness to share made it trouble free.
Like moths to a flame, before long everyone was gathered around that fireplace.
Tour Day 10: “This morning, meet up with a local guide who will join you for the day’s explorations. Check out the local farmers market in Telavi before driving to the hilltop fortified town of Sighnaghi, which has been preserved to its original image and now offers visitors stunning views of the surrounding Caucasus Mountains.
“Visit the fourth century Bodbe Monastery, before making your way back to Tbilisi for some free time this afternoon. As you didn’t have much time previously, perhaps you’d like to book yourself in for a visit to the sulfur baths in town and learn what all the fuss is about with this ancient ritual. Tonight, why not get your travel crew together for a celebratory dinner – your group leader will know of some good spots to head to.”
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We’re back in Tbilisi for our last night, above is the view out my window. Everyone is moving on tomorrow except me. I’m staying in Tbilisi for a few days at a guest house in another part of town. M&H are heading home. Ray is going to meet his daughter in one of the Stans to kick around for a few weeks and sleep in a yurt. The Rhondas are going to Turkey. ooo Judy, and ooo F&A, I forget where they’re going but someone will tell me soon. Ksenia is going to do an 8 night food tour in Georgia, although we all agreed, any tour in Georgia is a food tour!
First stop, a farmers market in Telavi. Following are some pictures but my picture of the donut didn’t turn out. That donut was something a person would remember. They’re called Punchulas, not really donuts, rather a circle of fried dough stuffed with the most toothsome rich gorgeous custard. I got mine hot from the fryer. It was SIGH-worthy.
All the vendors reach across the counter “Try it! Try it!” and who am I to say no?
My OIL! The toasted sunflower seed oil from the winery!
And pickles, required to have a big selection on hand as they are the favored cure for hangovers.
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The van and our driver. He did a wonderful job under trying circumstances especially in the mountains with the trucks, torn-up roads, rain, snow, and tourists, not to forget tourists. It was very comfortable I think, as comfortable as I would have hoped since there were extra seats and an accommodating guide and driver.
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Here we are at the hilltop fortified town of Sighnaghi, also known as, we are told by the local guide, as The City of Love. Why? Because you can get married here anytime 24/7. It’s their signature thing!
Note the EU flag. They’ll be so many more as I spend more time in Tbilisi. Georgia is not in the EU yet, they are one of the nine Candidate Countries but one of the concerns causing the recent demonstrations is that the law that just passed will make their application less desirable to the EU, so all these flags are basically aspirational.
Lunch. Yum. And what a view.
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It’s graduation week and the streets were full of these graduates, signed-up like a yearbook, and full of protestors with flags. It was an interesting mix.
Tour Day 11: “With no activities planned for today, you are free to leave the accommodation at any time.”
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Thank You in Armenian and Thank You in Georgian. It’s so fun to see the two texts side by side, and no wonder why reading the street signs was.. not to be.. not to be for me anyway.. but I loved the writing, it made me smile!
Bon Voyage to all my friends old and new. ENJOY all that comes next.
