Day 14 – Portree to Ben Nevis to Glencoe to Edinburgh.
Don’t be too sad that our trip is ending today, because there are a lot of amazing things to check out on the way back to Edinburgh. Once we’ve crossed the Skye Bridge, we get a chance to see Eilean Donan Castle. This classic combination of a sturdy-stone fortification perched upon a loch is about as Scottish a view as you can get. Just ensure you’ve got some room left on your camera to take photos. We then travel under Britain’s tallest mountain, Ben Nevis. The peak of this mountain is likely to be shrouded high in the clouds.
Our driver-guide may become a little emotional as we move through the valley of Glencoe. This marvelously mountainous area was the site of one of the most tragic massacres in Scottish history. The story is as unforgettable as the landscape. The hilly views become flatter as we enter the Lowlands and travel to Edinburgh. We arrive in the early evening.
Let’s talk about midges again because when they are swarming, as they were here, it can be quite unbearable. Not that I wouldn’t have done exactly the same thing but I would have bought some very thin cool long pants and thin cool long sleeved shirt and a hat with netting. Really, no shorts and spaghetti strapped camis for me! You can follow along here for the Midge Alert. Everyone eventually made a dash for the bus and everyone on the bus was yelling Get In Shut the Door Shut the DOOR.
So many greens.
We never did see a deer. We stopped here for the second time because I thought it was fab, the Glencoe Visitors Centre. We often saw Glen Coe as often as Glencoe but I never learned the difference, and now I know – Glen Coe refers to the valley and Glencoe refers to the village. Nice. But I’ll tell ‘ya, it often seems random.
Probably due to the size of our vehicle and Keith’s penchant for surprise, we got to go to many places where we were the only tourists, like this place for example.
Back on the Isle of Skye and today our driver-guide makes the most out of our time on this marvel-studded landscape. We may travel to the Quiraing mountain pass and enjoy a spectacular walk, venture to Kilt Rock and see a gigantic waterfall, or take a boat trip to the lesser-known Loch Coruisk. After we’ve enjoyed the sights of Skye, we have our final evening in Portree. There are plenty of fabulous seafood restaurants to celebrate a fine day of exploring.
Overnight – Skye
This was the only place we saw Coos that were not just loose in a pasture. Well, these guys are loose in a pasture, just a smaller pasture than usual. At least they can escape up the hill when they’re tired of all the oooowing and awwwwing from the tourists.
Everybody was NUTS for a Baby Coo! It’s a Baayyby!! He was so surrounded this was the best I could do. People were so excited, jockeying for a position, sticking their cameras right up into his face. I photoshopped out the fence, arms, phones…
An entrance to the stunning Fairy Glen.
Below is Bernadette’s picture – from the top, of me and Windy so happily strolling along the flat path.
The sheep are mostly free range, gathered up once a year or so.
This is all about “turn right at the barking dog”.
We ate here twice, both times we were in Portree on the Isle of Skye.
As we travel through the countryside.
Many of our group made it to the top. We did not. “This is Neist Point, the most westerly headland on the island of Skye and is famous for its dramatic sea cliffs, panoramic ocean views, and the iconic Neist Point Lighthouse built in 1909. The black circle in the upper right marks the high clifftop viewpoint where visitors often stand to get a sweeping view of the entire promontory.”
I mentioned about the single track roads before – here’s a better view. Drivers did try to pull into the Passing Place if there was one on their side and they could see oncoming traffic. It seemed everyone agreed who should back up when there was a face-off. You could always identify a driver from a drive-on-the-right country because they would pull into the opposite Passing Place and send our drivers into a shiver.
Mountains, Beaches and back to the Isle of Skye. It’s time for something a little more dramatic. It’s time to enter the region of Harris. Harris boasts the highest mountains in the Outer Hebrides and one of the most beautiful white-sandy beaches in Britain, Luskentyre. The area is also famous for Harris Tweed and myths that are as strange as they are poignant. After a morning of exploring the dramatic landscapes, we stop for lunch. Depending on the weather, we may even go for a picnic on the beach – so don’t forget to pack your sunglasses. Our adventure continues on a ferry over the sea to Portree, the largest town in Skye and our base for the next two evenings.
Overnight – Skye
Lews Castle, where we visited the inside a couple days ago. “Built in the mid-1800s by Sir James Matheson using wealth from the Chinese opium trade, this Victorian Gothic Revival castle has quite a history. It has transitioned from a grand private estate to a naval hospital during WWII, a college, and now a museum and luxury accommodation venue.”
I didn’t take very many pictures of our numerous accommodations, I guess maybe they weren’t particularly photogenic. This place had a not-very-good restaurant and not-very-good rooms, and the rooms were way too hot, But it’s all forgotten now.
More of these monuments that I talked about before.
We walked until we didn’t want to walk anymore.
Seven of us were together for our whole trip. The other eight changed twice, and we were perfectly happy with all of them. Wow, right.
A Harris Tweed Museum and store of course that was wildly popular with the gang.
We stopped off at a market, bought some snacks and sandwiches and had lunch at a stunning view, while sitting on a rock. Windy and I declined the opportunity to eat our lunch sitting on a rock and enjoyed the cushy bus instead, and then went for a welcome walk.
St Clement’s Church (known in Scottish Gaelic as Tùr Chliamhainn), built in the late 15th or early 16th century for the Chiefs of the MacLeods of Harris, constructed from local Lewisian gneiss rock and widely praised as the grandest medieval building in the Western Isles.
The tower is closed but the main part of the church is nicely restored.
Beaches…
…and more gorgeous beaches.
Of course whisky is The Thing here in the Scottish Highlands but also here they make my new favorite gin!
I’d say don’t bother with the Tidal Strength. It tastes like some herbs soaked in rubbing alcohol.
Back on the ferry. I don’t remember hearing one single complaint about all the ferry rides. Maybe because they are all in the program so we knew ahead of time, and also maybe because it was a nice chance to rest!
Interesting how so many of these main streets in little port towns have color, like they decided together.
Day 11 – Discovering Lewis and Harris
Today, we immerse ourselves in the history and landscapes of this wild island. We first head to Arnol Blackhouse. Here, we can experience what traditional farming life was like in these remote reaches without getting our hands too dirty. A little down the road, we visit the stone fort of Dun Carloway. This structure was built before 100AD and has experienced more battles than we’ve had hot dinners. It’s a wonderful location to ponder over the vast swathes of history that have come before us. The rest of our afternoon is spent in the beautiful beaches and mountains of the western side of Lewis. We head back to Stornoway in the late afternoon.
Overnight – Stornoway
The Lewis Chessmen, a very long and very old story.
A Tourist Farm with llamas and dinos and etc.
According to AI “This animal is a Kunekune pig, a domestic breed originally from New Zealand that is now commonly kept across farms and sanctuaries in Scotland”, also called a Hairy Pig!
WHAT?! These four+ horned sheep are called Hebridean sheep, “living links to the Iron Age”.
Doesn’t he look like he belongs in Viking mythology, or a satanic character from Hieronymus Bosch.
This is a picture of a picture, not mine, and shows how useful it is to be able to wait for the light. I mentioned before how there are standing stones all around the Highlands and we visited two or three sites today.
People were yelling at people to get out of their shot. “Move behind the stone! Step aside!” But not me, ’cause I’ve got photoshop.
Now you see her, now you don’t, from the tv show, or was it a movie, that they filmed here.
You see this scene everywhere, green hillsides and scattered sheep.
What a beach. I wasn’t expecting so many gorgeous beaches. I thought it would be too cold or too rough up there by the North Atlantic, but no.
There was a huge campsite up on the ridge above this scene of a happy-family-vacation.
These gals were at the campsite and I enjoyed a delightful conversation with them, where they were from, and where they were going.
Next stop, The Weaving Shed for a tutorial on Harris Tweed. We’re in Harris now btw, the area that borders Lewis, hence Lewis and Harris. I’m a HUGE fan of Harris now because I’ve finally found a replacement for my beloved Original (not! Sapphire) Bombay Gin, and it’s called Standard (not! Tidal) Isle of Harris Gin, and they export to the States.
This was super-interesting. One thing everyone agreed though, Harris Tweed is rough, thick, and itchy. We found this to be true everywhere we found Harris Tweed.
More sheep, more lochs (sea water or fresh water? who knows).
Day 10 – Ullapool and the Summer Isles to Stornoway
Wake up, enjoy our breakfast, and look out over Loch Broom as it glistens under the morning sky. First on the agenda today is a ferry journey across the sea. This two and a half-hour boat trip takes us through the Summer Isles to Stornoway, the main town of the Western Isles. But don’t spend our time snoozing and reading as we sail across the ocean; because if you look out to sea, you may spot dolphins and whales.
Once we’ve arrived on Lewis and Harris, we head to the North West coast. Our driver-guide will make the most of what weather we’ve been blessed with and take us through traditional crofting towns and seaside ports. We even get to see the Butt of Lewis; from the lighthouse here there’s nothing but fishes and water between us and America. We spend the evening in Stornoway; a bustling port town and the home of Scotland’s most delicious black puddings.
Overnight – Stornoway
Dogs from the ferry. I controlled myself this time and mostly left the dogs alone.
A nice welcoming pier.
Arriving, here was a sweet chatty fellow who told us a lot about his piper duties.
We took a little tour of the Lews Castle, located in Stornoway and who can resist a grand piano?
This picture shows the peat, and how it is ‘harvested’. It’s a big deal around here and you can look it up.
Coos! COOS!! We always stop for coos. (A reminder: Highland cows = Hairy coos.)
Also when the hike is just too forbidding, we keep our eyes out for a bench, to relax, and to take in the scenery and the fabulous weather.
This is the Butt of Lewis Lighthouse, located at the Butt of Lewis (the northernmost tip of the Isle of Lewis), within the Outer Hebrides.
The Butt of Lewis. “The jagged, weathered sea cliffs and rock stacks shown here are made of Lewisian gneiss, which are among some of the oldest rocks in Europe (dating back roughly 3 billion years).”
We have a free day in Ullapool before we join our new driver-guide and companions. This picturesque fishing town is surrounded by stunning mountains and is a paradise for wildlife enthusiasts. If we want to spot seals, dolphins, porpoises, numerous sea birds and eagles, we can go on a cruise around the Summer Isles. Alternatively, we can head up Claypool hill for an easy two-hour walk offering wonderful views over Loch Broom.
Ullapool is also a great place to relax and enjoy the Highland pace of life. We can browse the small craft boutiques, try whisky in a pub, or savour top-quality seafood. And in the evening, enjoy some live music and mingle with the locals before our next leg of the journey.
Overnight – Ullapool
We luxuriated in our day off, not spending too much time outside with the MIDGES, the doing-nothing was welcome.
Have I mentioned how many dogs are out and about in Scotland? They are everywhere and totally adorable. Dogs are welcome in restaurants, tourist attractions, walking trails, etc.
Day 8 – Orkney to Kirkwall to Ullapool.
After a relaxed start, we leave Orkney and sail the Viking waters back to the mainland. From here, we travel the old road right across the very top of Scotland, driving past the stunning Ben Loyal and Ben Hope mountains, following the rocky cliffs and stunning golden sand beaches. We then visit the far northwest Highlands and the wilderness of the mountains of Assynt before stopping to view the 15th-century ruins of Ardvreck Castle. From here, we travel to Ullapool, situated at the mouth of Loch Broom, a beautiful whitewashed fishing village where we spend two nights.
Overnight – Ullapool
We all, especially Billy, got awfully excited about these seals waaay out in the loch. (Not to forget Keith’s obsession with otters.)
The Italian Chapel (known locally as The Miracle of Camp 60) built by WWII prisoners of war.
It looks like it was built from materials also used to build Quonset huts.
St. George and the Dragon statue, just outside the entrance of the chapel, sculpted by Domenico Chiocchetti, the same Italian prisoner of war who masterminded the construction and fabulous interior frescoes of the chapel.
Dogs from the ferry, about 1/4 of the dogs there. I’m not even that into dogs but I felt compelled to say HI to everyone of them.
Following come a series of stops to include photo-ops, hikes, etc.
The Kylesku Bridge (known in Scottish Gaelic as Drochaid a’ Chaolais Chumhaing) opened in 1984 to replace a long-running ferry. If we wanted we could have 10 minutes or so to walk across the bridge. I could maybe walk across the bridge, but not in 10 minutes, so I stayed with the bus.
Ardvreck Castle, built in 1490. It seems we are doing a large part of what makes up “the legendary North Coast 500 road trip route.”
The town of Ullapool where tomorrow will be a free day. Oh we, Windy and I, were SO excited about a free day. Turned out to be a 20 minute walk into town from our accommodation. My plan was to lie in the bed with my legs up, add a chapter or two to my diary, and maybe stroll through town without any deadline. Windy’s plan was to find a laundry, and maybe stroll through town without any deadline. But First we went out to find dinner and…
… OMG MIDGES. We were both in a swarming swatting panic over the clouds of biting MIDGES that surrounded us everywhere we went. That’s Windy trying to swat them all out of the phone booth to no avail.
This is me, legs, arms, HANDS, neck, etc etc because the midges continued to swarm for days. Oh cry me a river. (And ps, it’s a week later and I’m still scratching bites!)
Today is our chance to explore this archipelago’s fertile green pastures, fringed by shores of golden sands and washed by waters of the North Sea and the Atlantic Ocean. We visit the 5,000-year-old village of Skara Brae, the mystical prehistoric stone circle at Brodgar, and the Druidic standing stones of Stenness. We then travel onto Maeshowe, where in the 12th century the Vikings left one of the largest collections of Norse runic inscriptions. Then it’s back to Kirkwall for our second night after what is sure to be a memorable day.
Overnight – Orkney
This was a huge day with many stops – I’m not even sure we did them all. It was an especially memorable day just not necessarily in details. Like which beach is this? I don’t remember, but more arms-in-the-air because we were just that kind of group.
Important to note, these are Not the Orkneys. No no, we say the Orkney Islands and to whomever asked, when we say we are going to, or we went to, the Orkney Islands everyone is so impressed and wishes that one day they might visit the Orkney Islands.
The statue is of Dr. John Rae (1813–1893), famous for mapping massive sections of northern Canada and discovering the final link of the North West Passage, located in the historic seaport town of Stromness, on the Mainland of the Orkney Islands.
I put these pictures in the exact order out of the camera but it is confusing, what is what, what is where. Let’s just look at the photos, shall we?!
This style of path is very common, making it possible to still walk when the mud and sleet take over.
I’m totally missing context for this picture.
Goodness, this might be the only picture I have of Billy, our guide for this segment.
There are standing stones all over the Orkney Islands, and this week is the most massive heather bloom in memory so Wow on both of them.
It’s an early start, leaving behind the ‘Capital of the Highlands’, crossing over the Black Isle, and continuing past Dunrobin Castle. From here, we drive along the northeast Highland coastline, traveling into some of Scotland’s most dramatic scenery. Onward through Scotland’s most northerly mainland village, John o’Groats, and then to Gills Bay, where we board the ferry, and cross the Pentland Firth into the Orkney Archipelago. It’s a short drive to the famous Italian Chapel where we stop for a visit before continuing to the Viking stronghold of Kirkwall, Capital of Orkney. Here we can visit Kirkwall’s magnificent Viking Cathedral and enjoy its historic winding streets in the evening.
Overnight – Orkney
We haven’t been following the itinerary closely, but we knew that before we started. We’re with our new driver/guide for the next few days and he has his own ways. It’s nice that the driver/guides have the liberty to make independent choices ..depending…
Dornoch Cathedral
Another oldie, built around 1500, it’s Dornoch Castle, also called the Palace of Dornoch, now the Dornoch Castle Hotel and the Dornoch Distillery.
Why? Obvi. (“Hamish,” the famous Highland cat of Dornoch.)
Seafood has been a culinary highlight.
Dunbeath Castle from the shoreside of Dunbeath Harbor.
Erected in 1991 to commemorate the centenary of the birth of legendary Scottish novelist Neil M. Gunn, who was born in Dunbeath. The boy and the fish depict a scene from a 1937 novel.
COOS!
Gotta love ’em.
John o’Groats: “The actual residential community of John o’ Groats is a scattered, linear crofting township located slightly inland along the main road. What tourists see at the coast is purely the commercial hub built explicitly to harvest tourist dollars from those finishing the North Coast 500 or catching a ferry.” To Harvest Tourist Dollars, what a great expression.
We took many ferries, I don’t have pictures of all of them but it looked mostly like this. The trips were from 30 minutes to 2 hours and 30 minutes. No one complained, really, the seating was comfortable, there was food and drink, and other necessities, and the air was so so good.
We spent the night just two blocks from here, St Magnus Cathedral, but late arrival and early departure and lazy-done-in legs means I didn’t get to walk around it or go in.
It was founded in 1137 by the Viking Earl Rognvald in honor of his martyred uncle, Magnus Erlendsson. The bones of both St. Magnus and St. Rognvald remain interred inside the pillars of the choir. It is the only completely surviving medieval cathedral in Scotland. So far, not getting in here is my only regret.
We’re collected from our accommodation for the short drive to the famous stronghold of Eilean Donan Castle. Then, we travel east, taking in the stunning views over Loch Duich and the Five Sisters of Kintail. We continue to Loch Ness for lunch and the possibility of spotting ‘Nessie’.
Half an hour south of Loch Ness we stop in the village of Spean Bridge and join a new bus for the continuation of our tour to Orkney. Our guides will help us transfer our luggage and introduce us to our new travelling companions. With our new crew, we continue north following the Great Glen travelling the entire 23 miles of the famous loch. We arrive at Inverness, where we’re dropped off at our accommodation.
The evening is free for us to explore the ‘Capital of the Highlands’.
Overnight – Inverness
I don’t remember the name of this place but it’s delightful, made to achieve the Fairy Glen feeling of its surrounding, and it’s special to Keith, so he brought us here for a morning coffee and sweet treat.
Windy and Keith. All the Rabbie driver/guides wear traditional kit on transition days. We all cheer.
I’ll have to ask our fellow travelers for a picture of Billy during one of these days since I Failed to take one:(
This is Eilean Donan Castle. We came by on another day with better lighting, so I’ll write about it later.
Here we are in the village of Fort Augustus at the southern end of Loch Ness.
What you see here in Fort Augustus are the “locks at Loch Ness,” referring to the 60-mile Caledonian Canal waterway which runs through the Scottish Highlands from Inverness in the northeast to Fort William in the southwest. Since Loch Ness itself sits elevated above sea level, the system requires a set of canal locks to lift and lower boats as they pass between the Canal and the Loch.
It was amazing to watch but we didn’t have enough time to see even one lock fill. That’s one downside, some of these crowded stops are so short it takes a big chunk of the time to acquire lunch and achieve a comfort break.
The full tour was 17 days broken into 4 parts. The first part was a Whisky Tasting Tour that we did not take. We did the other 3 parts and changed companions twice since all the segments were available individually. Two people did all 4, and 5 more of us did the last 3, if that makes sense, so for us, we were 7 for the whole tour. And to add to the confusion, we had Keith for our first and third segments, and Billy for the second.
Sounds like it shouldn’t work but actually it was good, everyone was delightful and the transitions went surprisingly well.
“…theCommando Memorial. In 1942, the Commando Basic Training Centrewas established nearby at Achnacarry Castle. The harsh, unpredictable weather and mountainous terrain of Lochaber provided the ultimate test for recruits.
“Fresh volunteers, elite soldiers from Britain, the United States, France, Poland, Norway, and other Allied nations would arrive at the Spean Bridge railway station after a grueling journey. They immediately had to load their gear onto trucks and complete a brutal 7-mile speed march to Achnacarry Castle in full kit (weighing 36 lbs) while carrying weapons. Anyone failing to finish in under 60 minutes was immediately sent back to their regular unit.”
We’ve been walking around in these hills and I’ll tell you a 7-mile speed march, carrying heavy things, in one hour, is A LOT.
“…theNew Mercat Cross memorial (also commonly referred to as the Unicorn Pillar), in the heart of Inverness, the capital of the Scottish Highlands. Unveiled in 2003, it stands 37 feet tall and is made from rich Scottish sandstone and Aberdeen granite.”
The unicorn represents “the Royal Connection” while the circling falcons represent “the Industrial History”. I got the picture from the bus, it was quite arresting, too bad we were on the move.
Ask AI “why are there so many monuments around the Scottish highlands” and you’ll get a very interesting essay.
We ate dinner here.
We’ve been eating breakfast at the B&Bs every morning, then depending, we either eat one more substantial meal as soon as we arrive back from the day’s adventures, or we share sandwiches around lunch time and something light later in the day. I’ve been enjoying local mussels, it’s a specialty, and over the two weeks I’ve had them maybe four times, and another specialty is local salmon that I’ve also had many times. Every place claims to own the title of The Best Fish and Chips but Windy avoids fried foods and I could eat only so much fish and chips so was unable to make a of study of The Best.
But whitebait! Fried whitebait has been my favorite treat of all.
Leanne and Elma are among the group leaving – thank you Leanne for the pictures!
Today is a very flexible day as we explore the Isle of Skye. There are many possibilities depending on the weather, and our driver-guide will use their local knowledge to decide on the best day out for the group. We may ascend the Quiraing along Trotternish Ridge and be rewarded with spectacular views. Alternatively, we could drink in the scenery at Loch Corruisk or drive through the dramatic Red Cuillin to the little hamlet of Elgol. We return to our accommodation in Plockton in the late afternoon for a free evening to explore the village.
Overnight – Plockton
Looking one way…
And the other, toward the Skye Bridge, It spans across Loch Alsh, running from the mainland village of Kyle of Lochalsh to the small island of Eilean Ban (visible under the bridge on the right side), which then connects over to Kyleakin on Skye. The historic Eilean BÃ n Lighthouse is just visible beneath the main arch.
Opened in 1995, the bridge made it possible to visit Skye without using a ferry, greatly reducing the time involved in getting there and greatly increasing the number of tourists. There are so many tourists driving rental cars that poor Keith spent an awful lot of time sighing. It’s true though, left hand roads and so many of them are single-track, it’s tricky to know the rules and even trickier to obey them. (“Single-track roads are narrow, two-way lanes wide enough for only one vehicle at a time, relying on side pull-outs called passing places to let traffic move in both directions.” I have some pictures for later.)
Everyone was comfortable, a nice way to travel if the itinerary is well planned (it was), you get a good guide (we did), and companionable fellow travelers (they were).
I mentioned before how we made a lot of stops, to see a sight, and to use a toilet. I don’t remember all the names and over these many days I didn’t always do the activity which often involved steep, slippery ‘walks’ to very high places. Still since the weather was so good it was easy to have a good time no matter what I did.
And we had almost no rain the whole rest of the trip. Amazing. What was the activity? I don’t remember!
How far did I walk?
Did I even walk past the sign?
This is the harbor of Portree, the main town on the Isle of Skye. It’s rare to see colored buildings so this really caught my eye.
The main square in Portree where all the tourist buses gather.
Built between 1850 and 1854, this is Portree Parish Church, a congregation of the Church of Scotland.
Rabbie’s seems to be one of the most evident tour companies around. I hadn’t noticed a single woman driver/guide yet so I asked Keith if there were any and he said there are a few, so I found one and I asked her and she said there are many. I’m including this picture to illustrate how my hair mirrors the hair of my favorite, the hairy coos (the Highland cows) found primarily in the Scottish Highlands. There are some on Day 2 and many more to come.
Whisky whisky whisky it’s The Thing and every worthy place has a distillery. Below represents Windy and my only tasting although others in our group drank a lot more whisky than we did.
Exit Through the Gift Shop.
The real go-getters who were ready to challenge themselves with the steep and slippery hike to the Fairy Pools went on ahead. We lazy bones came here instead, not far from the main (single-track…) road.
The Glamaig mountain, located in the Red Cuillin range here on the Isle of Skye (although I’m not 100% on this…).
A beach stop.
Our Don, outside my window.
Including the bikers…seems to be a throw-your-arms-in-the-air kind of day.
Day 3 – Oban to Glencoe to Fort William to Plockton.
We ramble north along the west coast around Appin, passing the impregnable Castle Stalker. Next, we head to the gorgeous Glencoe, one of the most famous natural landmarks in all of Scotland. This beautiful area boasts steep slopes and photogenic peaks. Your driver-guide may reveal to you the tragic tale that’s haunted this valley for over 300 years. We then venture through Fort William and under the shadow of Ben Nevis, which at 1,344 meters is the highest mountain in the British Isles.
We continue through the Great Glen, a natural fault in the earth’s crust that runs through Scotland. As we drive through tranquil glens and alongside shimmering lochs, we pass dramatic mountain vistas, including the Five Sisters of Kintail, and the stunning Eilean Donan Castle, with opportunities for photo stops and short breaks along the way. Our overnight destination is Balmacara (actually Plockton). Enjoy a peaceful evening in Balmacara, surrounded by loch views, woodlands, and mountain scenery. Wander local trails, visit Balmacara Estate or savour a hearty meal at a nearby inn or pub.
Overnight – Plockton
Leaving Oban we took a detour up to the McCraig’s Tower for the view.
Castle Stalker, “globally famous for its appearance in the classic comedy film Monty Python and the Holy Grail (1975), where it was featured as the “Castle Aaaaaaaaarrgh”.”
In Glen Coe (I’ve seen references to Glen Coe and Glencoe), “looking across the River Coe toward the towering mountain ridges that flank the valley. In the middle-left distance, you can spot the iconic, lonely Lagangarbh Cottage, a historic white crofthouse sitting right at the foot of the dramatic Buachaille Etive Mòr mountain.”
Here to experience the Glencoe Visitors Centre that highlights exhibits on the infamous 1692 Glencoe Massacre.
Rabbie’s runs ‘nearly 100’ vans around Scotland and with many overlapping itineraries you will find a situation like this from time to time, Rabbie’s vans gathered to spawn.
Gaelic Rain Terms Highlighted
Stealladh: Downpour
Ceòban: Misty drizzle
Fras: Rain shower
Smugadaich: Spitting
Smùid: Very fine drizzle
Marcach-sìne: Squall rider or spin drift
Boinnealaich: Rain droplet
Gathan-dubha: Black beams or darts (referring to dark shafts of rain)
This comes up often: “What are the Key Differences Between Irish and Scottish Gaelic. While both belong to the Goidelic (Gaelic) branch of the Celtic language family and share historical roots, they are separate, mutually unintelligible languages. In Ireland, it is pronounced “GAY-lik” (referring to the language as Irish). In Scotland, it is pronounced “GA-lik” (referring to it as Gaelic).”
Elma and Leanne on a trail in Glencoe’s National Trust for Scotland
This is Fort William where we made a quick stop for lunch. “..as the main gateway to Ben Nevis, the highest mountain in the United Kingdom, making it an incredibly popular base for hikers, climbers, and mountain bikers. The town’s railway station is the starting point for the Jacobite Steam Train (widely known as the Hogwarts Express from the Harry Potter films) which crosses the famous Glenfinnan Viaduct.”
We didn’t have much time to grab lunch. We were walking down an alley and this door seemed to lead to a restaurant, so we went in and got some food. I remain quite amazed that we went in that door at all.
Eilean Donan Castle, near the village of Dornie. The castle sits on its own small tidal island right where three great sea lochs meet: Loch Duich, Loch Long, and Loch Alsh. There are sea lochs and fresh water lochs but you have to know to know the difference – we couldn’t tell by looking.
Originally built in the 13th century and completely destroyed in 1719, this is a 20th century reconstruction, appearing in many movies, most famously in Highlander.
There was a bit of a kerfuffle over our rooms here in Plockton, involving a death in the family of our proposed host, and we being advised that we would be sharing a room despite that we booked separate rooms. This did not go over well but what with one thing and another it got settled and for the second of our two nights in Plockton, this was the view out my window and Windy got a bathtub, so we were both glad for that, the best rooms we had on the whole trip.
Coos! Whenever we see these Highland cows the whole bus cries out, Coos! Highland cows are not milked commercially or even used for meat. They’re like house pets. I think my out of control hair makes me totally look like a coo.
Day 2 – Oban to Mull to Iona to Oban.
Today we have an early start, beginning the day crossing on the ferry to Mull for a chance to explore dramatic coastlines and wild beauty. We take the small ferry to Iona, the birthplace of Celtic Christianity, and ancient burial ground of Scottish Kings. Here we can visit the historic abbey with its intricate carved crosses in the churchyard, or explore rocky headlands and sandy coves. There’s an opportunity to take a small boat for an optional trip to the island of Staffa and view the dramatic basalt columns immortalised by Mendelssohn in his Hebridean Overture “Fingal’s Cave”. (Staffa trip costs approx GBP £40, payable locally). We then return on the ferry to Oban for our second night.
Overnight – Oban
The view from the front steps of the B&B where we are staying. The second B, the Breakfast part is stretching it a little since we get a small box of a few cold things to eat in our rooms.
On the ferry to Mull. The program says we’re going to explore dramatic coastlines and wild beauty, and it was gorgeous, but mostly a long drive to the next ferry that took us to Iona.
Lismore Lighthouse that appears on many souvenirs.
Arriving at Iona with our first view of the legendary Abbey, founded by St Columba in 563.
We decided not to do the extra boat ride to Staffa, 50 minutes there and 50 minutes back in rough water on a small boat for one hour at the island, Everyone who went was glad for the experience and everyone who didn’t go was glad to be feeling well. Iona is a small village with a few shops and most importantly catering to the pilgrims coming to the Abbey.
From wikipedia = “The Iona Nunnery was an Augustine convent of nuns in the Inner Hebrides. It was established sometime after the foundation of the nearby Benedictine monastery in 1203 by Ranald, son of Somerled. Bethóc, daughter of Somerled, and sister of Ranald, was first prioress. The ruins of the nunnery stand in a peaceful precinct adjacent to Iona’s main (and only) village, Baile Mor. They form the most complete remains of a medieval nunnery extant in Scotland. After the Reformation, the priory was dissolved and reduced to a ruin.”
Several hotels on the island advertise their organic gardens. You can see large greenhouses in the background.
Dunsmeorach, a historic property that served as the private family home of Lorna and the Reverend George MacLeod. I like how this path looks.
This Abbey’s claim to fame. “Iona Abbey (and its adjacent historic cemetery, Reilig Odhráin) is traditionally reputed to be the final resting place of roughly 60 kings, including 48 ancient Scottish monarchs, 8 Norwegian kings, and 4 Irish kings, though specific individual graves from the early medieval period are no longer identifiable.”
The Abbey from the site of the burial grounds.
Another WOW, one of the harpists we saw at the Fringe is here to play a concert!
We are back on Mull, heading home, to find The Three Lochs situated in the glen of Glen More. The three individual lochs are:
Loch an Eilein (the farthest loch in the background)
Loch Sguabain (often referenced locally or maps as Loch Ellen, the middle loch)
Loch Àirde Glais (the closest loch in the foreground)
We had four ferry rides this day. Oban to Mull to Iona to Mull to Oban.
Duart Castle, a magnificent 13th-century clifftop fortress located on the Isle of Mull.
“Day 1 – Edinburgh to Trossnachs National Park to Oban
Travel north past Stirling Castle and to the region of Loch Lomond and the Trossachs National Park. You venture through the impressive mountains of the West Highlands and the magnificent whitewashed 18th-century town of Inveraray, home to the Campbell Clan and the Duke of Argyll. We will spend the afternoon in the heart of Argyll before arriving in the bustling town of Oban for your two-night stay.
Overnight – Oban” (The driver/guide, Keith, advised they pronounce Oban as OH-ben.)
I’ll start each day with the itinerary from Rabbie’s although we did often make variations from The Plan.
We met up with the group at the Edinburgh Bus Terminal, the bus arriving a little late, 15 minutes or so, and then we were off without any problems.
With Stirling Castle in sight…
…we pulled off the road for a photo-op.
Rabbie’s did a good job with scheduling what they call ‘comfort breaks’ meaning you can find a beverage, a snack, and a toilet, and I don’t remember the names of all these places but I’ll try. Below is such a place.
Luss Parish Church, “a picturesque and historic house of worship located in the conservation village of Luss, Scotland, nestled inside Loch Lomond and The Trossachs National Park.”
An arm of Loch Lomond…
…and a peek at the Loch itself. We are forbidden from saying Lake, oh no, we must say Loch properly or Keith will ignore us.
The High Road and the Low Road, you can look up the song and its unusual meaning that none of us could guess.
“By yon bonnie banks and by yon bonnie braes Where the sun shines bright on Loch Lomond Where me and my true love spent many happy days On the bonnie bonnie banks of Loch Lomond”
St Conan’s Kirk, overlooking Loch Awe in the Argyll and Bute region, built between 1881 and 1930.
This was fun from AI: “Because the designer was self-taught and let his imagination run wild, the building is a stunningly bizarre blend of styles—including Norman, Gothic, Saxon, and even Scottish Baronial architecture.”
Arriving into Oban in a light rain, lighter than rain, heavier than a shower. We went to a museum later in the trip where they had a display listing 8 different Scottish words for rain. I’ll point it out when we get there. Notice the distillery, a place isn’t a place without at least one distillery, and the coliseum-like folly at the top of the hill.
Some members of the group found themselves gathered together at a bus stop waiting for our ride to the various accommodations. Thanks Violet for taking the shot. We were 15 guests and at each place we had an overnight, Rabbie’s spread us out in 3-4-5 different B&Bs and hotels.
I’ll delete this post as soon as I can add a few days of the tour. It’s always one thing or another… and tonight, the 22nd, when I actually have a couple hours or so to work on putting the story together, the internet doesn’t work in my room and now I’m standing at the reception counter where the wifi works. Sigh. I’m just going to go to bed which is probably the best thing anyway!
Luna discovered that her train was going to be delayed so she quick like a bunny went to the train station, rerouted herself, and got home early. It was So Great to be able to get together!
But first we swung by a delightful Farmers Market just around the corner from our place in Stockbridge.
And then we had breakfast.
And then Luna went to the train station and we tidied up the place, did laundry, figured out timing for tomorrow, and went to sleep early in hopes of waking up refreshed and ready to go go go.
This looks like, but isn’t, our third accommodation in Edinburgh.
Luna arrived from London around 10 and right away we went off in search of where we could catch the HopOnHopOff bus but before we could actually locate it we ran into this crafts fair and both Windy and Luna were drawn to it as moths to a flame.
He was selling homemade soap with lovely scents as made by his grandmother. What a cutie.
Luna had just dyed her hair red and this handmade fabric crown simply had to be had.
The church next door.
Here is the key to the HOHO location, and we gladly Hopped On. I forget where it was we Hopped Off and then On again, but we made good use of our tickets and very much enjoyed the views and the commentary.
Some pictures from the HOHO.
Yup, a couple blocks of the Royal Mile during the Fringe Festival although locals we’ve talked to say don’t be fooled, it’s always like this.
Late lunch/early dinner, and YUMMY.
Here come many many pictures of buildings, not particularly famous ones, but to get a feel for Edinburgh.
Below is another one of those multi-stage venues and we stopped in because what seemed like a good show would be starting shortly.
But before the show we went into the lounge and listened to this guy for a while…
…driving Windy and Luna to d.a.n.c.e.
The first comedian made us laugh and because it was easy, we stuck around for the next guy playing on a nearby stage.
And now, walking back to our accommodation, we passed by 1000s of huge buses taking daytrippers home, and the castle warmly lit from the golden hour.
Stockbridge is a trendy neighborhood in Edinburgh where we happened to end up when looking for accommodation for our last few days before leaving on the tour. Below is a feeling for the neighborhoods of Edinburgh. You might remember from a few days ago, Edinburgh sits on the southern shore of the Firth of Forth, which is a large tidal estuary that opens directly into the North Sea.
We spent the day kicking around Stockbridge.
We took a walk along the Water of Leith Walkway, which was delightful.
Access from and to the Walkway.
We had a very good meal here…
…and our favorite Sticky Toffee Pudding so far, and our third to date. We were making a study of Sticky Toffee Pudding. We are now done with this experiment and are moving on to another dessert.
First we treated ourselves to a two hour massage and we both agreed it was Top-Notch.
We timed the massage to work out that we could get to the Flemenc-OH! show and it was fabulous. I caught a shot just as they were wrapping up for their curtain call.
These ladies let us have a turn with the glasses and we could see the eclipse clearly. We’re at about 40% here. You couldn’t really see the sun through the cloud cover but with the glasses, bam, there it was!
These signboards are all around and especially helpful when you’re trying to decide what to do.
This was one of the 101 Free shows, free meaning give what you think is right. It was five different comedians each doing a 10-15 minute bit in hopes that we would sign up for one of their real shows. We laughed. This guy knew a woman in the audience named Penelope and he called out to her “Penelope!” and “so, Penelope, howz it hangin’?” etc. Then he asked me my name to which I replied that I had never heard my name spoken out loud so many times as it had been just now. Oh! Penelope!!
This is me and Penelope!
The Royal Society of Edinburgh, King George IV, “The right side of the street is lined with beautifully preserved Georgian 18th-century stone townhouses. Today, these uniform structures house upscale shops, offices, and restaurants, keeping the original layout of the historic district intact.”, and in the distance, the steeple of Edinburgh New Town Church (historically known as St Andrew’s and St George’s West Church).
Another show board.
We saw Mark Steel, a well-known UK radio personality (we were told) who featured political humor. We didn’t know all the characters but his Trump was right on so I supposed the others were good too.
Today’s meal was a bistro-style seafood feast. YUM!
There are many lovely parks in Edinburgh and although we haven’t taken advantage of any of them, it’s fun to peer through the fences and know they are there.
Above, I actually took that picture. There are two St Mary’s here. This is the Episcopal one and there is also a Catholic one. We picked this one because it was closer and what a good choice that turned out to be because…
(What are these?!)
…because they were having a harp concert! Remember yesterday we happened into St Giles when they were having a harp concert and now this one. Windy was floating on air! These are internet pictures of the interior and the harpist because the church was full and the concert was happening the whole time we were there.
The one on the left is the Catholic St Mary’s and the one on the right is the Episcopal St Mary’s, where we were.
Outside our accommodation.
I guess you’ve got the idea by now of all the posters and flyers around town. This was just our second day, and as the days go by you talk to more and more people, mostly people in line, and get their recommendations, to help narrow down the 1,000s of shows available to the 10 you might have time for.
We’re going to track this one down for sure.
Constructed between 1811 and 1814, this building was originally St George’s Church but now they use it for the National Records of Scotland.
The formal name of the portrait museum=National Galleries Scotland: Portrait.
We like portrait museums because they usually tell an interesting story in chronological order.
Windy really wanted to see this performance and it wasn’t far from our accommodation, however it started at 9:25pm and I was done in with all the walking in the past many days. So much walking. So Windy took herself to the show and had the most fantastic time.
We moved today from our place in the outskirts of town into probably the nicest accommodation we’ll be having. It might be the most fully equipped and well-appointed place I’ve ever stayed in. It was supposed to be an easy walk to everywhere but not so easy for me.
Our destination, The Royal Mile, is the road leading up to the castle. We got halfway up the mile before I punked out and we never even saw the castle, but that’s on the plan for the day after tomorrow. The entire distance of The Royal Mile is pedestrianized and swarming with people who want you to take their flyer and to convince you to see their show and with people strolling along, waiting to be convinced. It is all high spirited fun and everyone is happy. That’s what I say, everyone.
The city is papered with flyers on almost every surface.
St Giles Cathedral located in the middle of The Royal Mile, below photo from the BBC. It’s very old and of course there’s more history than you want to read here. AI gives us a quick summary: “St Giles’ Cathedral, located on Edinburgh’s famous Royal Mile, was founded around 1124 by King David I and has served as the physical and spiritual heart of Scotland’s capital for 900 years. Often called the “Cradle of Presbyterianism,” this iconic building has weathered wars, fires, and religious revolutions. While it is widely known as a cathedral, it is technically the High Kirk of Edinburgh because the Church of Scotland does not use bishops.”
Looking out at today’s crowd being entertained by a guy juggling fire. For some reason I didn’t get him in the shot.
Here are a few of the stained glass windows that surround the building.
It seems every public building participates in the Fringe. She was a joy and Windy, a huge fan of the harp, couldn’t believe her good fortune to come upon her.
Below, the thistle is the national symbol of Scotland. While it might seem strange to choose a sharp, prickly weed as a national emblem, they like to say the thistle represents the fierce, tough, and independent spirit of the Scottish people.
And speaking of thistles, this is the Thistle Chapel “a small but breathtaking masterpiece located in the quiet southeastern corner of St Giles’ Cathedral. It serves as the official, ceremonial home for The Most Ancient and Most Noble Order of the Thistle. which is Scotland’s highest and oldest order of chivalry.
This couple were married here 40 years ago and they couldn’t be happier than to spend their anniversary at this very spot.
And the traffic cones? It has become A Thing around Scotland.
I looked up some statistics:
For the 2026 Edinburgh Fringe Festival, August 7-31, there are over 4,100 to 4,300 scheduled shows. Because it is an open-access festival where acts are constantly registering, the official program started with 3,649 shows but grew rapidly to more than 4,200 unique acts and productions by the time the festival began.
These acts add up to roughly 55,000 individual performances taking place across nearly 300 venues throughout the city. Most of the venues support multiple shows throughout the day. Performers have traveled to Scotland from 74 different countries to take part.
We ordered up some Thai food for dinner which was ok but not particularly to my taste. Then we ate the leftovers for breakfast.
266 feet, is that a lot of elevation? I was Done In by the end. And no, 266 feet is, according to Gemini “a very small amount for a hike, equal to climbing about 26 flights of stairs.” And how it feels depends of course on how quickly you make the elevation. But Gemini, please, I do not climb 26 flights of stairs!
The shore-side path.
And now heading Into The Woods.
We ran into so many dogs everywhere. I can’t remember going anywhere so far and not finding dogs.
One of the very few hand rails along the way.
I asked AI what is this and can we eat it. The reply: commonly known as Dryad’s Saddle or the Pheasant Back mushroom, you can eat it, but you won’t want to since at the size of this specimen it will taste like a shoe.
This plant has a lot of names in Scotland all for a reason – Rosebay Willowherb, Fireweed, Bombweed, even Singerweed.
We were headed here, to Hillend Tavern because it looked cool in the pictures, and it was cool inside too, and they had all the beverages, but sadly, I didn’t check the menu, which was probably because they don’t have a menu, because they don’t have any food, except you can buy a bag of chips! So we had our pub beverage and then had to move on for food.
This dog came by to ask for pets. There were several other dogs in the pub too.
So we continued on to The Compass where they were serving Sunday Roast, a Sunday tradition in the UK (and UK influenced countries). It was much better than the picture! They even went ‘in the back’ to scrounge up some cranberry sauce for the turkey. From the top – Yorkshire Pudding, parsnips, an odd square of dressing, potatoes, peas, broccoli, turkey, creamed cauliflower, and gravy. And we shared a Sticky Toffee Pudding for dessert.
The exhaustion of the walk and the huge meal meant we were totally not up for a walk back. Since it’s almost impossible to get transportation on a Sunday and particularly where we are out in the hinterlands we were so lucky that one of the guys working at the restaurant knew a guy he could call and in 20 minutes or so we were back at home-sweet-home ready to run a load of wash and pack up for tomorrow’s move into the city.
I touched his little head and he closed his eyes, laid his head on my hand, and did that nighty night dog snort. Oh my goodness.
.
Windy really wanted to see a guy she follows on youtube who was playing at the fringe so she bought tickets for the day after our arrival and off we went. The number we had at the condo for taxis was disconnected, uber said someone would be in touch within 10-9-8-7-14-13-20-21 minutes. It wasn’t promising, so we hit the streets and hailed down 4 buses that happened by, who were helpful but ultimately not That helpful and finally the last guy said get on, we’re going to the train station and it’ll take you right there.
Once at the train station everything went swimmingly until we got into town and were swarmed by the busses, taxis, and tourists, a sea of tourists. We had left 3 hours early but to reach the show even close to on time we had to take a taxi from the train station.
We made it!
Below is his flyer. All these flyers represent 2% of the shows happening at the Fringe Festival which I’ll talk more about later.
John Scott of the Sweary News.
We picked a condo in a distant land for our first three nights thinking we’d just hang around, rest, enjoy the gorgeous walks, and get time-changed, which is what we are going to do tomorrow. This is the bus that took us to the train. All the bus drivers did try to help but they weren’t going in our direction. They did kindly elucidate with words and gestures what we should do. I think we caught half of it.
The train ride was lovely as everyone around was chatty and happy to tell us things. It was charming.
A mural in front of the train station in honor of one of the bridges…which I will talk about next.
Oh look, a carnival.
Folks on the train wanted to tell us about the bridges and it was so interesting. You can see them here in chronological order. If you’re interested you can click on this 3 Bridges website for details, not too much, just enough.
We can see all three bridges from our balcony.
Looking in the other direction from the dining room window. People bring their dogs down here to frolic in the water and then roll in the sand. They really love their dogs in Scotland.
We were in town for a short time, enough to have a pretty tasty dinner and when we wanted to take the leftovers home they said no, sorry, we don’t have a license for take-away. Does this happen often, we asked. Not so often, she replied.
Looking up.
Just around the corner.
The statue depicts William Chambers, a renowned publisher and former Lord Provost of Edinburgh standing directly in front of the Victorian-era building of the National Museum of Scotland.
Shock-o-rama I heard my name floating through the cabin, who’s saying my name? Oh my goodness it’s Alex from Crystal who I haven’t see in 23+ years! Oh my goodness is right! This is the long-haul part of the trip – LA to London and Alex is going home for several weeks to hang with friends and relatives. 23 years, and are we not as cute as ever we were.
It’s a quick hop from London to Edinburgh, and on arrival it was cool and windy, and I was SO happy not to be hot. Windy put on her coat but I stood in the wind, in my spaghetti straps, arms out-stretched, taking it in. Check out the guy in his kilt!
The taxi driver from the airport dropped us off in a completely wrong complex and we wandered around for a very long time until a kindly neighbor helped us out and even carried our bags up the many many stairs. Thank you kind neighbor! And this cat with his own entrance and exit. Hey guy!
I was done-diddy-done-done but Windy still had enough gas in the tank to walk 20 minutes to a local mini-mart, get us some treats, and walk back. Awesome babe, and then bed.
Getting ready to be gone and let’s hope for a lot of list-ticking in the coming days.
Windy and I are doing this trip, a week in Edinburgh for the Fringe Festival, the Tattoo, a remarkable city, and Luna coming up from London to hang with us for a couple days.
Then we are joining the tour above. Wow, right, hoping for the best in guides, weather, character-filled accommodation, and traveling companions. It will definitely be raining off and on most days, probably not for the whole day, but I’m very very excited not to be hot, with forecasts of highs 50s to high 60s. Ahhh.
This day was Windy’s birthday and we had some evening plans set up for months. At the last minute we decided to go out to the town of Warwick for the morning to enjoy their castle/attraction.
“The Mighty Trebuchet. This is the largest working siege machine IN THE WORLD! The colossal catapult is an authentic recreation of one of the biggest and most deadly military machines of all time.”
They had a fun demonstration of the Mighty Trebuchet. My favorite is that guy in the foreground pointing with his sword.
…with guides to answer questions and do demonstrations. The kids were in thrall to the arms and armor and that adorable man who did a great job. He even gave us his attention to answer as many questions as we could find to ask about all his stuff.
Here is the home of the Royal Shakespeare Company. (The inset I got off the internet. We never made it for a river cruise what with one thing and another.)
Btw, the town is called Stratford-Upon-Avon while the district is called Stratford-On-Avon, and hence the confusion.
We had a perfectly splendid dinner at Loxleys, a well regarded restaurant/gastro-pub establishment in Stratford-Upon-Avon.
I had made reservations ahead and told them of Windy’s birthday. We got the best seats in the house with a sweet Happy Birthday card decorating our table. We were both really happy.
-Shakespeare’s Birthplace;
-the home where Shakespeare died and where his granddaughter lived out her life;
-the house where Shakespeare’s eldest daughter and her rich husband lived;
-Anne Hathaway’s Cottage, the place where Shakespeare’s wife grew up;
-and Mary Arden’s House and Countryside Museum, home of Shakespeare’s grandparents.
They’ve done a lot of work revealing the Tudor (1485-1603) (overlapping with the Elizabethan period 1558–1603) black and white half-timber frame architecture predominant throughout town.
There are so many more of these black and white half-timbered buildings. They are very cool with many different styles of timbering creating surprising designs.
We are off on our quest for evidence of our father’s father’s father and mother – our great-grandparents are supposed to be buried here in the St Andrews Church in the teeny-tiny village of Fontmell Magna.
The burial site of William and Dinah (Myall) Hunt.
Windy’s favorite story: John said, about our grandfather Walter, “oh, he’s famous around here. When he was a young rapscallion he stole a neighbor’s plow and hauled it to the top of the church tower.” In John’s book recording the deaths in the village, beside the neighbor’s name and date of death was the comment ‘the man who had his plow stolen’.
From the History of Macoupin County, Illinois, 1911. Please feel free to skip right by all this – I’ve just copied it in because neither I nor my little sister knew 1/100th of what’s in here. We never met this grandfather since he died in 1942, well before either of us were born.
“WALTER G. HUNT, organizer and manager of the Brighton Mutual Telephone Company, also prominently identified with other lines of business, is numbered among the enterprising and successful men of Macoupin County. His life is a practical demonstration of what may be attained by a man of energy and determination, actuated by a worthy ambition to accomplish honorable aims.
“He was born in Dorsetshire, England, May 27, 1865, a son of William and Dinah (Myall) Hunt. The parents died in the old country, the mother, however, having spent three years with her children in America.
“Mr. Hunt of this review was educated in the common schools and as he grew to maturity applied himself to the cabinet-maker’s trade. At the age of nineteen he emigrated to the United States and proceeded direct to Golden City, Barton county, Missouri, the home of a brother, Albert, who had arrived in this country two years previously. He found employment under his brother in the contracting and building business, continuing with him for a year, and then was engaged in other lines for three years. In 1888 he removed to Kemper, Jersey county, Illinois, and applied himself to railroad work, painting, carpentering, farming or any other honorable occupation that was available.
“At the age of twenty-five he was married and took up his residence with his bride upon a farm known as the old Hart place, of which he had been the owner for two or three years. In March, 1893, he traded his farm for a furniture and undertaking establishment at Brighton and removed to this city, which he has since made his home. He applied himself diligently to his business, and it has since largely increased under his effective management.
“In 1902 he organized the Brighton Mutual Telephone Company, of which he has since been the head. He also associated with others in the organization of the First National Bank at Brighton in April, 1909, and is a member of the board of directors of that institution. He has been very active in local affairs and was one of the leaders in effecting the organization of the volunteer fire company of Brighton and has had charge of the engine ever since it was purchased. The funds for the fire bell were secured by popular subscription but there was no money in the treasury for the erection of a tower. Mr. Hunt suggested a voting contest as to the most popular young lady in the city, and the money for the tower was soon forthcoming.
“The tower was dedicated by a picnic which was called the Betsey Ann picnic and has since been held annually, being recognized as one of the noted events of this section. Mr. Hunt served as president of the Betsey Ann society for about six years after its organization. His energy has also found expression in the establishment of a picture show at Brighton, being associated in this undertaking with W. H. Robings.
“On the 29th of November, 1890, Mr. Hunt was married, at Piasa, Illinois, to Mrs. Mary E. Denny, whose maiden name was Mary E. Reynolds, and to this union eight children have been born, five of whom survive, Gladys, Dorothy, Walter G., Paul, and Marcella. All of the children are living at home.
“Politically Mr. Hunt is an adherent of the republican party, of which he is an earnest supporter, being at the present time a member of the county central committee. He has served with general acceptance to the people as tax collector of Brighton, member of the town board and township clerk, and is now filling the office of clerk of the school board of the township. Fraternally he is identified with Brighton Lodge, No. 366, I.O.O.F., and has passed through all the chairs in that organization. He is also a member of the Rebakahs and of Brighton Camp, No. 1688, M.W.A. He and his family are connected with the Methodist Episcopal Church. He is a man of unusual business capacity and accomplishes with apparent ease what would appear to be impossible to many of less resourceful mind.
“He is one of the foremost citizens of Brighton, and justly deserves the high regard in which he is held by a large and growing circle of friends and associates.”
In the village there is the pub and guest house from the first picture, the church with our great-grandparents, another chapel, and a little shop. That’s pretty much Fontmell Magna.
At the shop we saw our great-grandfather mentioned in a book(!) with a date of 1841, evidence of his residence in Fontmell Magna. We asked the woman there if she knew how we could get in touch with whomever was in charge of the church.
Go see John Enderby she said, in the little house across from the church set back from the road, because he knows everything.
And he did know everything. After inviting us in he soon retreated to his study and returned with a list to confirm that yes our relatives were there and yes the stone had been removed.
We had such an fantastic time. That’s his river, and the spot where he drinks gin, and his daughter…
John told us he was for sure, he said, without a doubt 100% that this is our great-grandfather’s house.
Water George Hunt, Sr, our grandfather, was born here in 1865 and had told a member of the family that the house he was born in was 200 years old at the time making this house from the mid-1600s.
“The origin of the Westbury White Horse is obscure. It is often claimed to commemorate King Alfred’s victory at the Battle of E?andun in 878, and while this is not impossible… However, there is at present no documentary or other evidence for the existence of a chalk horse at Westbury before the year 1742.”
There are many of these huge horses where the sod is cut out to reveal the chalk hills made throughout the centuries and maintained for equally as long.
We arrived in Salisbury late afternoon yesterday and didn’t do much because today is a big day.
In the morning we did a city walking tour, although ‘city’ is a bit extreme, more like a town walking tour. But they have a fine cathedral with one of the four copies of the Magna Carta.
We’ve heard several times now why there are so many rivers around here called Avon, rivers that are not connected in any way all called the river Avon.
The reason: Afon is the Welsh word for river and when the Romans came around they asked people ‘what’s the name of this place’ and the answer was always ‘afon’ .. river.
My pictures of Salisbury Cathedral are not worth showing except this one is a little interesting to see the height of the main aisle.
And then we saw the Magna Carta!
Is this the ‘real’ Magna Carta? Someone else asked the internet and the internet replied: “Lots of copies where made and only 4 survive today, they are located at: Dover castle, Lincoln castle, Salisbury cathedral and houses of parliament.”
But, we learned, Stonehenge isn’t actually a henge. A henge is roughly circular in shape and requires a bank with an internal ditch surrounding a central flat area. In the case of Stonehenge, its ditch runs outside its bank.
Our guide Pat replies with his favorite expression: “Ceremonial and ritual purposes”. According to Pat “Ceremonial and ritual purposes” is Archeologist-speak for “We have no idea”.
Pat had two topics upon which he was most emphatic: 1) the Druids came along well after Stonehenge had already fallen out of use and 2) Roman history is boring.
Carbon dating puts the earliest part of the construction here at 3100BC, with some post holes nearby indicating the beginnings of a ritual site from 8000BC.
There have been a number of restorations here over the years. You can see a picture of the site in 1877 on wikipedia to get a feeling for the amount of work done.
We didn’t get the event of a rising or setting sun through the stones but it was plenty of wow anyway and very much worth the extra money to get this after-hours time.
Our HOHO bus ticket from yesterday included a little river cruise so we decided sure why not.
Here are three interesting bridges. The London Millennium Footbridge which, quite majestically and poetically, links St Paul’s Cathedral to the Tate Modern.
London Bridge. The Tower Bridge is not the London Bridge. The London Bridge looks a little ordinary and this is the fifth version. The previous four did fall down.
…and then he pointed down. Here is the work of Chewing Gum Man Ben Wilson. He finds blobs of chewing gum on the street and through a surprisingly long process including heating it until it melts, paints intricate designs as inspired by the location, and turns the blob into an art piece.
He sprays the finished product with some material to make it last, for a while anyway.
We planned to meet at a chic-chic hotel because it would be such a comfortable place to wait. Windy got there first and blew a huge wad of cash-ola on these treats.
These are not mine, I got them off the internet but I wanted to show more.
One thing though, he’s gotten way famous now with gallery representation and traveling exhibitions which might put me off him.
Now I know one important part of why I love street art – it’s when the work is specific to its site. Take it away from it’s place on the wall in the neighborhood and it’s something different, and less appealing to me.
I also want it to have something to say, which can be a lot of poTAYto poTAHto but at least I want it to say something to me.
In the one in the middle, the figure is leaning against the wall with his leg crossed. Since that trash can is always there Stik decided to make it part of his design.
Check out that doorway behind our guide Claude. It looks like a big mess and it was a big mess. We stood in front of that doorway for 15 minutes talking about all the different artists represented.
