’26 Aug: Hebrides +The Northern Isles

Day 6 – Inverness to John o’Groats to Kirkwall.

It’s an early start, leaving behind the ‘Capital of the Highlands’, crossing over the Black Isle, and continuing past Dunrobin Castle. From here, we drive along the northeast Highland coastline, traveling into some of Scotland’s most dramatic scenery.
Onward through Scotland’s most northerly mainland village, John o’Groats, and then to Gills Bay, where we board the ferry, and cross the Pentland Firth into the Orkney Archipelago. It’s a short drive to the famous Italian Chapel where we stop for a visit before continuing to the Viking stronghold of Kirkwall, Capital of Orkney. Here we can visit Kirkwall’s magnificent Viking Cathedral and enjoy its historic winding streets in the evening.

Overnight – Orkney

We haven’t been following the itinerary closely, but we knew that before we started. We’re with our new driver/guide for the next few days and he has his own ways. It’s nice that the driver/guides have the liberty to make independent choices ..depending…

Dornoch Cathedral

Another oldie, built around 1500, it’s Dornoch Castle, also called the Palace of Dornoch, now the Dornoch Castle Hotel and the Dornoch Distillery.

Why? Obvi. (“Hamish,” the famous Highland cat of Dornoch.)

Seafood has been a culinary highlight.

Dunbeath Castle from the shoreside of Dunbeath Harbor.

Erected in 1991 to commemorate the centenary of the birth of legendary Scottish novelist Neil M. Gunn, who was born in Dunbeath. The boy and the fish depict a scene from a 1937 novel.

COOS!

Gotta love ’em.

John o’Groats: “The actual residential community of John o’ Groats is a scattered, linear crofting township located slightly inland along the main road. What tourists see at the coast is purely the commercial hub built explicitly to harvest tourist dollars from those finishing the North Coast 500 or catching a ferry.” To Harvest Tourist Dollars, what a great expression.

We took many ferries, I don’t have pictures of all of them but it looked mostly like this. The trips were from 30 minutes to 2 hours and 30 minutes. No one complained, really, the seating was comfortable, there was food and drink, and other necessities, and the air was so so good.

We spent the night just two blocks from here, St Magnus Cathedral, but late arrival and early departure and lazy-done-in legs means I didn’t get to walk around it or go in.

It was founded in 1137 by the Viking Earl Rognvald in honor of his martyred uncle, Magnus Erlendsson. The bones of both St. Magnus and St. Rognvald remain interred inside the pillars of the choir. It is the only completely surviving medieval cathedral in Scotland. So far, not getting in here is my only regret.

Day 7 – Exploring Orkney

Today is our chance to explore this archipelago’s fertile green pastures, fringed by shores of golden sands and washed by waters of the North Sea
and the Atlantic Ocean. We visit the 5,000-year-old village of Skara Brae, the mystical prehistoric stone circle at Brodgar, and the Druidic standing stones of Stenness. We then travel onto Maeshowe, where in the 12th century the Vikings left one of the largest collections of Norse runic inscriptions. Then it’s back to Kirkwall for our second night after what is sure to be a memorable day.

Overnight – Orkney

This was a huge day with many stops – I’m not even sure we did them all. It was an especially memorable day just not necessarily in details. Like which beach is this? I don’t remember, but more arms-in-the-air because we were just that kind of group.

Important to note, these are Not the Orkneys. No no, we say the Orkney Islands and to whomever asked, when we say we are going to, or we went to, the Orkney Islands everyone is so impressed and wishes that one day they might visit the Orkney Islands.

The statue is of Dr. John Rae (1813–1893), famous for mapping massive sections of northern Canada and discovering the final link of the North West Passage, located in the historic seaport town of Stromness, on the Mainland of the Orkney Islands.

I put these pictures in the exact order out of the camera but it is confusing, what is what, what is where. Let’s just look at the photos, shall we?!

This style of path is very common, making it possible to still walk when the mud and sleet take over.

I’m totally missing context for this picture.

Goodness, this might be the only picture I have of Billy, our guide for this segment.

There are standing stones all over the Orkney Islands, and this week is the most massive heather bloom in memory so Wow on both of them.

Have I mentioned how many dogs are out and about in Scotland? They are everywhere and totally adorable. Dogs are welcome in restaurants, tourist attractions, walking trails, etc.

Day 8 – Orkney to Kirkwall to Ullapool.

After a relaxed start, we leave Orkney and sail the Viking waters back to the mainland. From here, we travel the old road right across the very top of Scotland, driving past the stunning Ben Loyal and Ben Hope mountains, following the rocky cliffs and stunning golden sand beaches.
We then visit the far northwest Highlands and the wilderness of the mountains of Assynt before stopping to view the 15th-century ruins of Ardvreck Castle. From here, we travel to Ullapool, situated at the mouth of Loch Broom, a beautiful whitewashed fishing village where we spend two nights.

Overnight – Ullapool

We all, especially Billy, got awfully excited about these seals waaay out in the loch. (Not to forget Keith’s obsession with otters.)

The Italian Chapel (known locally as The Miracle of Camp 60) built by WWII prisoners of war.

It looks like it was built from materials also used to build Quonset huts.

St. George and the Dragon statue, just outside the entrance of the chapel, sculpted by Domenico Chiocchetti, the same Italian prisoner of war who masterminded the construction and fabulous interior frescoes of the chapel.

Dogs from the ferry, about 1/4 of the dogs there. I’m not even that into dogs but I felt compelled to say HI to everyone of them.

Following come a series of stops to include photo-ops, hikes, etc.

The Kylesku Bridge (known in Scottish Gaelic as Drochaid a’ Chaolais Chumhaing) opened in 1984 to replace a long-running ferry. If we wanted we could have 10 minutes or so to walk across the bridge. I could maybe walk across the bridge, but not in 10 minutes, so I stayed with the bus.

Ardvreck Castle, built in 1490. It seems we are doing a large part of what makes up “the legendary North Coast 500 road trip route.”

The town of Ullapool where tomorrow will be a free day. Oh we, Windy and I, were SO excited about a free day. Turned out to be a 20 minute walk into town from our accommodation. My plan was to lie in the bed with my legs up, add a chapter or two to my diary, and maybe stroll through town without any deadline. Windy’s plan was to find a laundry, and maybe stroll through town without any deadline. But First we went out to find dinner and…

… OMG MIDGES. We were both in a swarming swatting panic over the clouds of biting MIDGES that surrounded us everywhere we went. That’s Windy trying to swat them all out of the phone booth to no avail.

This is me, legs, arms, HANDS, neck, etc etc because the midges continued to swarm for days. Oh cry me a river. (And ps, it’s a week later and I’m still scratching bites!)

Day 9 – Exploring Ullapool

We have a free day in Ullapool before we join our new driver-guide and companions. This picturesque fishing town is surrounded by stunning mountains and is a paradise for wildlife enthusiasts. If we want to spot seals, dolphins, porpoises, numerous sea birds and eagles, we can go on a cruise around the Summer Isles. Alternatively, we can head up Claypool hill for an easy two-hour walk offering wonderful views over Loch Broom.

Ullapool is also a great place to relax and enjoy the Highland pace of life. We can browse the small craft boutiques, try whisky in a pub, or savour top-quality seafood. And in the evening, enjoy some live music and mingle with the locals before our next leg of the journey.

Overnight – Ullapool

We luxuriated in our day off, not spending too much time outside with the MIDGES, the doing-nothing was welcome.

Day 10 – Ullapool and the Summer Isles to Stornoway

Wake up, enjoy our breakfast, and look out over Loch Broom as it glistens under the morning sky. First on the agenda today is a ferry journey across the sea. This two and a half-hour boat trip takes us through the Summer Isles to Stornoway, the main town of the Western Isles. But don’t spend our
time snoozing and reading as we sail across the ocean; because if you look out to sea, you may spot dolphins and whales.

Once we’ve arrived on Lewis and Harris, we head to the North West coast. Our driver-guide will make the most of what weather we’ve been blessed with and take us through traditional crofting towns and seaside ports. We even get to see the Butt of Lewis; from the lighthouse here there’s nothing but fishes and water between us and America. We spend the evening in Stornoway; a bustling port town and the home of Scotland’s most delicious black puddings.

Overnight – Stornoway

Dogs from the ferry. I controlled myself this time and mostly left the dogs alone.

A nice welcoming pier.

Arriving, here was a sweet chatty fellow who told us a lot about his piper duties.

We took a little tour of the Lews Castle, located in Stornoway and who can resist a grand piano?

This picture shows the peat, and how it is ‘harvested’. It’s a big deal around here and you can look it up.

Coos! COOS!! We always stop for coos. (A reminder: Highland cows = Hairy coos.)

Also when the hike is just too forbidding, we keep our eyes out for a bench, to relax, and to take in the scenery and the fabulous weather.

This is the Butt of Lewis Lighthouse, located at the Butt of Lewis (the northernmost tip of the Isle of Lewis), within the Outer Hebrides.

The Butt of Lewis. “The jagged, weathered sea cliffs and rock stacks shown here are made of Lewisian gneiss, which are among some of the oldest rocks in Europe (dating back roughly 3 billion years).”

Our Aussies!

Interesting how so many of these main streets in little port towns have color, like they decided together.

Day 11 – Discovering Lewis and Harris

Today, we immerse ourselves in the history and landscapes of this wild island. We first head to Arnol Blackhouse. Here, we can experience what traditional farming life was like in these remote reaches without getting our hands too dirty.
A little down the road, we visit the stone fort of Dun Carloway. This structure was built before 100AD and has experienced more battles than we’ve had hot dinners. It’s a wonderful location to ponder over the vast swathes of history that have come before us.
The rest of our afternoon is spent in the beautiful beaches and mountains of the western side of Lewis. We head back to Stornoway in the late afternoon.

Overnight – Stornoway

The Lewis Chessmen, a very long and very old story.

A Tourist Farm with llamas and dinos and etc.

According to AI “This animal is a Kunekune pig, a domestic breed originally from New Zealand that is now commonly kept across farms and sanctuaries in Scotland”, also called a Hairy Pig!

WHAT?! These four+ horned sheep are called Hebridean sheep, “living links to the Iron Age”.

Doesn’t he look like he belongs in Viking mythology, or a satanic character from Hieronymus Bosch.

This is a picture of a picture, not mine, and shows how useful it is to be able to wait for the light. I mentioned before how there are standing stones all around the Highlands and we visited two or three sites today.

People were yelling at people to get out of their shot. “Move behind the stone! Step aside!” But not me, ’cause I’ve got photoshop.

Now you see her, now you don’t, from the tv show, or was it a movie, that they filmed here.

You see this scene everywhere, green hillsides and scattered sheep.

What a beach. I wasn’t expecting so many gorgeous beaches. I thought it would be too cold or too rough up there by the North Atlantic, but no.

There was a huge campsite up on the ridge above this scene of a happy-family-vacation.

These gals were at the campsite and I enjoyed a delightful conversation with them, where they were from, and where they were going.

Next stop, The Weaving Shed for a tutorial on Harris Tweed. We’re in Harris now btw, the area that borders Lewis, hence Lewis and Harris. I’m a HUGE fan of Harris now because I’ve finally found a replacement for my beloved Original (not! Sapphire) Bombay Gin, and it’s called Standard (not! Tidal) Isle of Harris Gin, and they export to the States.

This was super-interesting. One thing everyone agreed though, Harris Tweed is rough, thick, and itchy. We found this to be true everywhere we found Harris Tweed.

More sheep, more lochs (sea water or fresh water? who knows).