Campeche arrival above, but first we stopped off in Mérida for a little look around and especially to check out the main square because I wanted to see it, having been there 15-20 years before. I remembered nearly nothing, but that’s ok because it was cool again.
The oldest cathedral in Latin America.
La Casa de Montejo, built between 1542 and 1549, before the cathedral, and also on the main square.
Close-up of a government building on the square. And we ate on the square, and visited the roof of another building on the square. I got my square.
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And now on to Campeche. We arrived late and right away decided to find the main square.
We went for dinner at a nice place with a balcony overlooking the church and the square.
We took a short stroll through the old town…
…to enjoy the Malecon, and then we grabbed a taxi home.
We came here because of its proximity to Palenque and didn’t have the time to really look around so basically all we experienced was traffic. That said, I did admire this tanque elevado, adorned with the image of the sacred ceiba tree. We took a taxi to the bank rather than get the car out again and the driver told us there were several of these old water towers no longer in use but similarly decorated with other images.
The one above is a view from our building, and the one below is from the internet.
Also from the internet, a picture of one of the buildings in our complex. Ours was bright pink and there was at least an orange one and maybe a yellow one too. This picture was better…
After leaving Campeche we stopped for lunch in Cuidad del Carmen. It was a long drive through country roads made up mostly of speed bumps and pot holes but the landscape was so lovely we both decided it was worth it, even to the driver who had to navigate all the hazards. The highways had their challenges too, long waits at toll booths, overturned trucks, and multiple security slowdowns. If google says 5 hours, and you have to stop for food and gas, count on 7-8! Cynthia drove and I was just lolling in my seat, enjoying the views, and took not one photo.
Another thing that was super-evident in every town – you never paint your house the same color as your neighbor’s. It just isn’t done. There are some exceptions I’m thinking of when white is a popular choice, but watch out for your trim – it better be different.
We decided to let someone else drive us around today because it was going to be another long slog. We really wanted to see Palenque, it was the main reason for stopping in Villahermosa. The internet advice forums thinks it’s two hours under perfect conditions but it took us closer to three each way.
Here’s a map of the excavations.
WIKIPEDIA! “The Palenque ruins date from ca. 226 BC to ca. 799 AD. After its decline, it was overgrown by the jungle of cedar, mahogany, and sapodilla trees but has since been excavated and restored.”
“Palenque is a medium-sized site, smaller than Tikal, Chichen Itza, or Copán ((wow I’ve been to all three..)), but it contains some of the finest architecture, sculpture, roof comb and bas-relief carvings that the Mayas produced. Much of the history of Palenque has been reconstructed from reading the hieroglyphic inscriptions on the many monuments. …By 2005, the discovered area covered up to 2.5 km2 (1sq mi), but it is estimated that less than 10% of the total area of the city is explored, leaving more than a thousand structures still covered by jungle. Palenque received 920,470 visitors in 2017.”
A too-long telephoto of the top of one of the structures where you can see the reliefs and inscriptions.
Can you see those people climbing up the structure in about the center of the picture. We all thought climbing was against the rules, but apparently not.
While we were in this place the howler monkeys were going nuts and their cries were echoing in this clearing.
Plenty of shopping opportunities along the way.
We were there near closing with a setting sun.
Cynthia took this pano.
Some aerials from the internet.
Our driver who spoke no English but was always there with an extra hand when the paths got slippery. No Falling. I was snug and safe with two hands between Cynthia and the driver. Cynthia bought him a ticket to come in with us and at that point, much to our surprise, we learned he was born in Villahermosa, lived there his entire life, and never visited the Zona Arqueológica. He was thrilled, taking pictures and texting with his wife.
We were stalled here for a long time, road work maybe I forget, but I took this picture as a reminder.
Our driver pointed out several of these monkey crossings. You can see the rope ladder there on the right.
(self-portrait)
After a long day we had to drive for over an hour in the dark and we were especially glad to have someone else do it!
If we knew then what we know now we might not have added the time, but still, it was fun just to walk around.
Eyipantla Falls, the inset is a view from the long walk down that we didn’t take.
The viewing deck.
And the last sighting.
Here’s something from the drive. We got off the highway at a 1 hour security delay and ate a chicken.
It happens.
We rode over a few bridges built like this.
Arriving in San Andrés Tuxtla we checked into one of the most unique airbnbs either of us had ever experienced. And when the people are sweet, and they’ve worked hard, you might as well enjoy yourself. The quirky collection of.. what.. and the hand-made construction was not represented on airbnb. There was a nice restaurant just around the corner and we had a lovely evening.
Here’s the Family Band.
I already messed up this dish as usual, and it was so nicely composed when it came. Then it turned out to be really good so I took its picture.
(I of course talked to them before taking these pictures.)
This has been going on ever since we hit the road back on November 29. The pilgrims need to be at one of the churches dedicated to Our Lady of Guadalupe by December 12, the most important pilgrimage date in Mexico. The National Catholic Register reported that 12.5 million arrived in Mexico City last year. I didn’t see numbers on the other churches. It can be a days or weeks long journey. Pilgrims are traveling by foot often with support vehicles creeping along behind, on bicycles carrying huge statues on their backs, in trucks, and in cars.
It seems that how you go and what you wear is regional. It’s quite amazing to find these lines of walkers and bike riders sharing the highway with huge barreling trucks and speeding cars trying to pass the trucks, or the other way, trucks trying to pass the cars.
Notice the guy with the torch. People traveling in these trucks would, from time to time, dispatch a barefoot runner with a torch. Here’s a small story about the Torch Runners.
Here are some internet examples of pilgrims traveling to their destinations. We saw all this but I didn’t get a decent shot off.
We were stopped at a gas station/OXXO and the parking lot was full of these kids milling around. I called out “anyone want to be in a picture?” and this is what happened.
On the road again…
Earlier in the day we were hungry and Cynthia caught sight of a restaurant sign, so we turned around and came upon this place that was wonderful.
