ALOHA! I get to spend a couple of weeks in Kauai and how lucky am I?! Click for a good detailed map of Kauai, in case you wonder about these places.
A little slice o’ paradise. And a nice cozy-up with Hinakuluiau, the Hawaiian goddess of rain.
From the ‘Aloha Welcome!’ booklet Sharon’s son left for his guests: ‘To the west of the house you may have noticed a spirit house from Thailand. DO NOT TAUNT THE SPIRIT HOUSE. Periodically give offerings of flowers, leis, and trinkets, and you will be rewarded with good luck.’ And the mutant house plants that flourish here.
The pier in Hanalei Bay looking out to Bali Hai featured in the movie South Pacific. And this is the beach where she washed that man right outta her hair.
The movie biz has really taken Kauai as The paradise island. Buses run regularly to the various sites for the benefit of the tourists. Click for a partial list of movies made in Kauai.
The girls. Cute as a paper of pins.
Ke’e Beach and the last stop on the road. From here you can begin to hike the Kalalau Trail along the Na Pali coast. Dug in against the towering cliffs it is a treacherous and frightening proposition which we all declined.
At this flat place ‘Hawaii’s greatest hula masters once taught here. According to legend, the volcano goddess Pele departed Kauai from here, settling on the Big Island, where she still lives.’
A view from the cemetery road.
This Palm Forest was planted in the 1800s and later surrounded the Coco Palms resort where they filmed Blue Hawaii among many other Hollywood productions. Listen for Elvis as you pass by… The resort was abandoned after Hurricane Iniki in 1992 and stands now ghostlike itself. Political debates rage as to the next incarnation of this stunning site.
Click on the link for a slightly larger view of the Palm Forest.
The neighbors a few doors down were having a birthday party for a friend of theirs and invited all of us to join in.
The girls at the party included (left to right) me, Other-Sharon, Nancy, Cousin Sharon, Kathy, and Camas. Other-Sharon is visiting from Idaho where they own and operate a guest ranch. We were at Kathy’s house three doors down from Cousin Sharon.
Camas lives next door to Kathy and I’ve put a couple of her oil paintings in with the places they evoke. You can click here to see her shutterfly album.
We get up, we drink coffee, admire the sun glistening off the waking river, make a big ol’ honkin’ breakfast and then hit the road for another Day Of Adventure.
Today we took the Southern Route first stopping off in Hanapepe which offered an extended shopping exercise for Nancy and Sharon. Nancy wanted Old Stuff, for Real stuff and this town had a few shops specializing in vintage Hawaiiana. Oh yeah, she bought stuff.
Then we’re off to Waimea Canyon. The guidebooks call Waimea Canyon The Grand Canyon of the Pacific and it is a grand canyon indeed. Look at the left edge towards the top and you’ll see a towering waterfall.
Click on the link for a slightly larger view of Waimea Canyon.
On arrival at the Na Pali coast viewpoint in Koke’e State Park you could see Jack Squat Nothing NADAVille as the whole place was socked in with fog. And then ‘wait! I think I see something!’ ‘Wait, I think I see something too!’ And after about 3 minutes the fog had dissolved to reveal this stunning vision. What a treat.
There are dozens of kinds of palm trees and we love then all. Sharon treated us to lunch at Gaylords, a restaurant created in an old plantation house. This is the backdrop to our table. Many rooms in the house were turned over to art galleries and shops and the grounds are maintained to arboretum standards.
The Sprouting Horn blow-hole near Poipu. Sun on water = washed out highlights. Bummer! The absolute coolest thing about this place was the sound you’d hear just before the sprouting. It sounded like a huge elephant at the roar, or like you were underwater and heard a family of whales chatting, or like your stomach was growling during a silent moment at the theater.
Looking the other way. The volcanic stone you see here and in the previous picture is the primary building material for walls, bbq pits, fascias, and is broken up into chunks for pathways and garden decor. Can be a little tough on the bare feet and you don’t want to knock up against any corners for sure.
A view in the pool, for my mother who is crazy for turtles.
She developed her passion for turtles around her eightieth birthday and by her eighty-fifth birthday she had to call a halt to gifts of turtles since her apartment was overflowing with turtles in every variety, made of every material, sized from teeny to humongous. Even she, of infinite capacity for ‘stuff’ couldn’t take any more. So here’s a picture and it doesn’t take up any room at all.
This is it for today. Two pictures. It rained. ‘It rained.’ Interesting grammar… We did some chores and some shopping and then relaxed through the day and into the night. We did puzzles, read, played dominoes, ate of course. It was lovely.
Here is early morning with the river flooded and the dock sunk on its moorings.
Kenny, who hosted the party on our second day here, uses the dock next door. He runs a water-skiing and kayak business and here’s a funny story because it wasn’t me…
He had a group of tourists out in the kayaks yesterday and they all got stuck way up river. Their guide had to come down to get Kenny and the boat, to effect a rescue. It took a very long time and included a lot of hysterical screaming on the part of the stranded tourists. All was well in the end but a bit of a drama I hear while it was happening.
There are great kayaks right here whispering my name and I have been looking forward to an outing on the river but not to worry, I’ll be waiting until it’s all clear ahead.
We took another several hours outing stopping first at the nearby Opaeka’a Falls. This feeds directly into the Wailua River that flows by the house. Notice how brown/red the water appears. This is from the red dirt picked up by the storm. Even the surf was exactly this color.
Everywhere around here you can buy Red Dirt Shirts and Kauai certainly came to Red Dirt life these last few days.
Sharon was telling me this story as we drove into the Park: In this area there are frequent wild boar hunts with dogs specially trained for the job. The dogs are also trained to return to ‘home base’ should they get separated from the group. It turns out ‘home base’ must be the parking lot because this guy surely does look like a hunter and he was clearly just hanging around waiting for someone to come and get him.
Is he not the Red Dirt Dog?
Camas’s house that reminds me of what houses would look like nestled in these jungle clearings. If you could get yourself some serious sun of course.
We walked from the house to get the Sunday paper. At the corner we came upon a Sunday tradition: the Pu’u Wai Canoe Club Huli Huli Chicken. I asked the cook, ‘what makes it Huli Huli?’ ‘Huli means turn’ he said. ‘Huli Huli means turn twice. You know that dance, don’t you?’ I did a little boogie-woogie and got a bemused nod and a grin and an ‘I knew you knew.’
I’m reading a saga of a Hawaiian family now, Shark Dialogues by Kiana Davenport, and last night came to a part where they were talking about the need for ‘revolution’, for ‘huli’, so I guess as is so often the case, meaning comes from context.
Mostly today was all about this. Wind and rain. I was thinking, if I was younger and on my precious one week vacation I might get in a twitch but now, older, wiser, and most-to-the-point, Retired, I can happily enjoy whatever strikes the mood of the island gods.
We were going to have a nice walk in Poipu but ended up sitting here back at the Hyatt enjoying the Sunday paper and the view.
Can you guess what it was like today? Right. Rain. And tomorrow? Rain. So I looked her up, Hinakuluiau, the goddess of rain. Ok, Ok Hinakuluiau, we get it.
We drove out to Princeville today for a look around and because from the Princeville Hotel you can get some killer views without going outside. The ‘town’ of Princeville is actually a private world of golf courses, time-shares, condominiums, and boutique hotels – 11,000 acres of primo real estate devoted to very high end, isolated tourism.
I suppose it could be worse for the local people – like if it was a stinking industrial pig farm or something.
This is a bit of the Princeville Hotel’s beach with pools and all the usual luxury hotel accoutrements behind me.
The lobby however offers one of the most stunning views EVER. Even socked in by low clouds and rain I just stood there a-gape at the 290 degrees of surrounding mountains and sea, with Hanalei Bay and Bali Hai in the distance. It really is worth driving through condo-land to see. My pictures are useless to convey the feeling and I couldn’t find anything on the internet either that came close so you’ll just have to go.
Camas’s painting that reminds me of this place if you walk down the beach a bit. And get yourself some sun.
We swung by a guava plantation on the way home with plenty of shopping opportunities. I almost bought this cream made out of the noni fruit as a salve for mosquito bites. Maybe I’ll order it over the internet? They offer a nice walking tour too but we declined since it was raining and the route was a mud-slogged trek.
I’m writing this at 5am on the 15th. We’ve been up since 3:15. The police have been to the door and emergency trucks are patrolling the neighborhood. Some houses down the street have already been evacuated because of the storm. Yikes. We are 96% confident here that the river will not reach the yard, but then there is that 4%.
This afternoon there was an 8 minute break in the rain and I got this distort-o-pano from the dock.
A flash of sun! Quick!! Take a picture!!! Looking back at the house from the dock on the river.
From/through/around the downstairs windows is the site for all the other house pictures. There are two bedrooms upstairs and I’ve got this massive and oh-so-very-very comfortable suite to myself.
You’re right, what you’re thinking, about that bedroom suite. It is bigger than my house.
The rain is now falling only intermittently, the river is down, all is well, and I’m off for home.
Mahalo to Sharon for inviting us, for driving me and Nancy on every road in Kauai, for tour-guiding and food and comfort, and for surrounding our time together with sweet affection.
Mahalo to Trey too, for encouraging his mother to entertain her friends so lavishly.